Everything You Need to Know About Vintage Zodiac Watches
Old Zodiac Sea Wolf ad
How Old Are Zodiac Watches? And Are Zodiac Watches Still Made?
Zodiac watches date back to 1882, when Ariste Calame set up a workshop in Switzerland. Being born the son of a watchmaker, he was obsessed with designing the most precise watch in the world and created his first pocket watch that same year. He patented the name Zodiac in 1908. As of this time, Zodiac was producing their own calibers and movements for their coveted pocket watches. In 1924, Zodiac launched their first pocket watch which housed the caliber 1617 movement.
Zodiac watches are still being manufactured today, in 2018, Zodiac released the Olympos, Grandrally, and Grandville. The Super Sea Wolf also got an updated case and dial design that year.
Who Owns Zodiac Watches? Where Are Zodiac Watches Made?
The Fossil Group purchased the Zodiac Swiss watch brand in 2001 for around $5 million USD.
A decade prior, in 1990, Willy Gad Monnier purchased the Zodiac brand. His company, Montres Zodiac SA, would go bankrupt in 1997. Willy Gad Monnier was a former TAG Heuer shareholder, and his Heuer influence could be felt through the design of Zodiac watches in the 1990s. In 1998, Genender International Inc. purchased Zodiac and their remaining assets, before selling it off to Fossil in 2001.
Zodiac watches are made in Bienne, Switzerland and are owned by the Fossil Group. Fossil is a watch conglomerate based in Richardson, Texas – a smaller version of Richemont or the Swatch Group. Fossil also owns movement manufacturer STP, who produce mechanical movements for an assortment of their companies in Switzerland. STP stands for ‘Swiss Technology Production’.
The development of the STP1-11 movement began in 2006 when STP was established. The first finished movement left the factory in 2008 and production volumes increased significantly afterwards.
Back in 2002, ETA had cornered 75 percent of the movement making market. It was during this time that Nicolas Hayek, the head of the Swatch Group, announced a plan to stop supplying outside brands with its movements in 2006.
Hence, the necessity for Swiss Technology Production, that powers Fossil and Zodiac watches. The Swatch Group’s ETA movement manufacturer and the Swiss Competition Commission, a federal body that oversees antitrust and competition issues, are still in negotiations today.
Is Zodiac a Luxury Watch Brand? Is Zodiac a Good Watch Brand?
1960s Zodiac Sea Wolf ref. 722-946B / Credit: Hodinkee
Zodiac is a unique brand because it designs modern timepieces to be based on vintage Zodiac designs. With such a rich history to choose from, this isn’t all that surprising. Each watch maintains the same sense of scale to keep the finished timepiece as historically accurate as possible. All the ‘new’ Zodiac has done is introduce a few contemporary updates and improve functionality.
Zodiac has been an established Swiss manufacturer for over a century. Since 1882, they have focused on precision, design, and craftsmanship – with an added rebellious twist. Zodiac is a great Swiss watch brand and well respected within the confines of the watch world.
The most expensive watch currently on the Zodiac website is the Limited-Edition Super Sea Wolf 68 Saturation x Andy Mann watch for $2,295 USD. The least expensive watch currently on the site is the Grandrally Quartz leather watch for $495 USD. Zodiac is a well-known watch brand, known for being a high-end, but not necessarily luxury brand.
Vintage Zodiac Seawolf’s, vintage Zodiac Super Sea Wolf’s, vintage Zodiac Sea Chron’s, vintage Zodiac Aerospace GMTs, and vintage Zodiac Aeronauts all regularly go for thousands of dollars online.
Zodiac has a unique heritage, makes excellent Swiss watches, and is great value for the money. A top-notch low to mid-priced Swiss Made watch.
The Zodiac Watches Logo and the Zodiac Killer: Who is the Zodiac Killer?
Zodiac the watch brand’s logo and the Zodiac Killer’s symbol
The Zodiac Killer ravaged California through the 1960s. His first three targets were couples in Northern California, two of which survived. His final known victim was a taxi driver in San Francisco.
During his killing spree, he taunted local police and California citizens with threats, ciphers, and information. In a letter The San Francisco Examiner received on August 4th, 1969, he introduced himself as the ‘Zodiac’. His messages would often include a crosshairs symbol, which resembled the sight on a rifle – which was also displayed on the hoodie he wore during his initial attack.
The Zodiac Watches’ logo was also the same symbol used by the Zodiac Killer during his murderous campaign in the late 1960s. In fact, a Zodiac Sea Wolf was featured in the 2007 film Zodiac, which was based off Robert Graysmith’s book at the time. In both the book and movie, the murder suspect, Arthur Leigh Allen, wears a Zodiac Sea Wolf.
What Are the Best Vintage Zodiac Watches?
The Vintage Zodiac Sea Wolf
Vintage Zodiac Seawolf Automatic Diver / Credit: Vintage Portfolio
The Zodiac Sea Wolf arrived in 1953. The year of the dive watch. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Rolex Submariner were also released that year. This was one of the first serious dive watches manufactured for the masses.
The Vintage Zodiac Super Sea Wolf
Vintage Zodiac Super Sea Wolf / Credit: Watches to Buy
Later into the 1950s, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf was released. An evolution of the Sea Wolf, the Super Sea Wolf featured a new patented crown winding system and improved case back. The watch’s water resistance was also increased to 750 meters.
The Vintage Zodiac Aerospace GMT
1960s Zodiac Aerospace GMT / Credit: Hodinkee
In 1960, the Zodiac Aerospace was released. The Zodiac Aerospace still kept with the famous Sea Wolf design, but also added a 24-hour GMT hand. One of the staple vintage Zodiac GMT watches.
The Vintage Zodiac Astrographic Watch
Zodiac Astrographic LE re-release / Credit: WatchTime
In 1969, one of Zodiac’s most popular designs continued to gather mainstream attention with its quirky mystery dial. The key feature was floating minute and hour hands, with a small red moon orbiting the dial.
By: Eric Mulder
Read more:
“Zodiac Legacy.” Zodiac Watches, https://www.zodiacwatches.com/en-us/zodiac-legacy/.
“Fossil Group Acquires Zodiac Watches.” Mergr, https://mergr.com/fossil-group-acquires-zodiac-watches.
“Current History.” Vintage Zodiacs, https://www.vintagezodiacs.com/currenthistory.php.
Adams, Ariel. “A Visit to STOP Watch Movement Manufacture: Fossil Group’s Answer to ETA.” aBlogtoWatch, April 3rd, 2016, https://www.ablogtowatch.com/visit-stp-watch-movement-manufacture-fossil-group-answer-eta/2/.
“History.” STP, https://www.swisstp.com/en/history.
Naas, Roberta. “Fate Of Watch Brands Hangs Uncertain As Swatch Group’s ETA Faces Production, Distribution Restrictions By COMCO.” Forbes, December 30th, 2019, https://www.forbes.com/sites/robertanaas/2020/12/30/fate-of-watch-brands-hangs-uncertain-as-swatch-groups-eta-faces-production-distribution-restrictions-by-comco/?sh=1ad142e983af.
Kettler, Sara. “Why the Zodiac Killer Has Never Been Identified.” Biography, October 10th, 2019, https://www.biography.com/news/zodiac-killer-murder-identity.