Watches of Switzerland Group share price (GBX), last 6 months. (Data: LSEG)
Watches should not be considered an investment, so the saying goes. Jean-Frédéric Dufour has said he did not like when people compare watches to stocks. “Nous fabriquons des produits, pas des investissements,” he said in 2024.
But if investors want to reap the benefits of Rolex’s incredible performance today — including its CPO program, whose success has exceeded expectations — they could do worse than looking at Rolex's biggest partner, Watches of Switzerland Group (WOSG). With over 200 showrooms, the publicly traded retailer accounts for roughly half of Rolex sales in the U.K.
While WOSG’s stock fell in 2023 on fears that Rolex would favor its newly acquired retailer, Bucherer, that has not materialized. For Rolex, harming its century-old partnership with the largest luxury watch retailer in the U.K. would be self-defeating, as Rolex doesn’t want to expand its retail footprint further. In general, Rolex has been consolidating distribution toward large, well-capitalized partners that can invest in multi-million-dollar flagship boutiques, like the new Bond Street location run by WOSG. In the U.S., the same pattern is emerging, as more mom-and-pop retailers are closing and supply is shifting toward preferred partners that have the wherewithal to build larger Rolex boutiques.
The U.S. market remains highly fragmented, and WOSG is one of the few retailers with the financial resources to consolidate some of the Rolex network, a model favored by the brand. It expanded Mayors from 17 stores to more than 30 after acquiring the U.S. retailer in 2017. The purchase of Betteridge added four Rolex doors in Greenwich, Aspen and Florida in 2022. Earlier this year, WOSG expanded in Texas through Deutsch & Deutsch, adding four more showrooms.
WOSG will likely expand its U.S. foothold through further acquisitions, with Rolex favoring more multi-level experience boutiques. These boutiques now include a CPO floor, as the pre-owned market is growing multiple times faster than primary sales, a program where WOSG has already surpassed Bucherer.