EU Publishes Findings on Rolex-Bucherer Deal Approval

The European Commission publicly released its report for the first time on Friday, outlining its July approval of Rolex's acquisition of Bucherer while examining competition concerns under EU merger regulations.

The 30-page report provides an insight into the Commission's analysis of the buyout’s impact on the watch market, particularly in the €10,000–€49,999 segment, where Rolex already commands a 50–60% market share.

The Commission questioned whether Rolex might prioritize its own products at Bucherer outlets. But it concluded that Rolex lacked the incentive to do so without harming its own broader distribution network​.

The Commission also raised concerns that Rolex could gain access to competitors' strategies, given that Bucherer sells products from various brands and holds valuable data on sales performance, inventory levels, marketing strategies and customer preferences. But Rolex pledged to enforce safeguards, including limiting employee access to sensitive information, maintaining completely separate IT systems and restricting Rolex to aggregated data, with detailed data only accessible to non-strategic staff.

Tudor Readies Launch of Tiffany-Blue Chrono

Jay Chou. (Photo credit: @JayChou/Instagram)

Montres Tudor SA, a sister brand of Rolex, is preparing to launch a Black Bay Chrono featuring a turquoise-blue dial, marking the fifth color variation of the steel model following white, black, blue and pink editions.

Taiwanese singer-songwriter Jay Chou posted Tuesday a photo of himself wearing the piece to his nearly 10 million followers on Instagram.

On Wednesday, former English soccer player David Beckham shared a glimpse of the watch on his fleeting Instagram Story, tagging Inter Miami CF — likely a nod to the football club's retro jersey unveiled in July 2024, which the watch's color appears to honor.

It is not the first time Tudor has teased new watch releases through brand ambassadors. That strategy is increasingly adopted by other brands to build anticipation and spark conversation during a period in the market when major product launches are scarce.

Same Author to Expand Rolex Book Series

(Photo courtesy of Rolex)

Nicholas Foulkes announced Wednesday that he will continue authoring future Rolex-commissioned books about the brand’s legendary timepieces.

The announcement appeared in an article published by Spear's, a British luxury lifestyle magazine. The London-based author began the series with Oyster Perpetual Submariner: The Watch That Unlocked the Deep, which was released last fall.

For the first time since the book's publication, Foulkes reflected in an article on his writing process and the exclusive access to Rolex's archives, saying he has set out to “write a series of books about the brand’s emblematic models.”

“It is a privilege and pleasure to sit in the Rolex archives sifting through more than a century of letters, memoranda, minutes of board meetings and order books, while surrounded by watches so rare and recondite that few people even know of their existence,” Foulkes wrote in the Spear's article.

If you missed it: Coronet’s series of short articles on Rolex’s first authorized book about the Submariner.

As Rolex Pre-Owned Supply Grows, Flippers Pull Back

(Data: WatchCharts/Morgan Stanley)

The inventory of Rolex models sold on the pre-owned market continued to swell in 2024, according to WatchCharts’ first market report of 2025, released Tuesday in partnership with Morgan Stanley. But those listed for sale in brand-new condition declined for the first time since 2021, a sign of more flippers exiting the market.

Still, the Rolex secondary supply has reached a record high when compared to 2021, putting more pressure than ever on prices. “We see no sustainable long-term factors that would drive an eminent market recovery,” WatchCharts wrote in its analysis after tracking a set of 30 modern Rolex models.

One reason for an ever growing supply of Rolex watches is sellers holding out and unwilling to realize losses. Meanwhile, the Rolex CPO program has grown significantly this past year, with 107 retailers now participating, compared to around 25 retailers enrolled in CPO a year ago.

Among prominent pre-owned dealers, Hodinkee exited the secondary market entirely in 2024, just three years after getting into the business through its $46 million acquisition of Crown & Caliber. In Europe, Chronext entered voluntary administration after unsuccessful fundraising efforts and was acquired in Dec. 2024. Chrono24 announced today it would cut 110 jobs, almost a quarter of its workforce.

“A return to a world where most Rolex models are readily available at retail is conceivable in the next few years,” WatchCharts said.

Rolex Doubles Down on DEI as Others Retreat

(Photo credit: Rolex)

“Diversity, equity and inclusion are priority topics for Rolex.” That's according to a document produced by Rolex and reviewed by Coronet. “Aware of the potential attached to diversity within managerial functions and technical professions in particular, the company is taking new measures to increase diversity at every level,” the document reads.

Rolex standing firm on DEI initiatives bucks the trend of companies that have recently abandoned diversity programs, as backlash toward DEI policies continues to grow. Meta on Friday said it is joining other corporations like Ford, McDonald's and Walmart that have pulled the plug on their DEI initiatives.

Still, in an industry traditionally dominated by men, Rolex said it is focused on increasing diversity within managerial and technical roles. Efforts to bridge this gap include active recruitment of women and showcasing diverse profiles at educational forums and student events. “New training courses are being developed to raise awareness of this topic among all management staff and teams,” Rolex said in the document.

Rolex's workforce currently comprises 43.1% women, but this drops to 18.6% in management roles, a disparity the brand is addressing through targeted initiatives. Rolex’s employee base currently includes 94 nationalities spread across 150 distinct professions, the document shows.

Rolex 'Eco-Friendly Box' Planned Since 2020

(Photo credit: @dcash0615)

Coronet reported in late December that Rolex’s new presentation boxes will ship with the mention indicating they are made from recycled materials.

The “eco-friendly presentation boxes,” as they’re officially called by Rolex, have been in the works since 2020, the brand said, the latest sign of Rolex’s ongoing efforts to reduce the environmental impact of its products. (Starting in 2025, all new movements brought to market will be 100% lead-free.)

Rolex said the new box is composed of a main structure made from 45% wood, compared to the previous version, which was 92% plastic.

The brand has now reduced the use of petroleum-based plastic from 92% to 6%, resulting in an annual reduction of 500 tonnes of plastic. Another significant component of the new box, accounting for 31%, is molded cellulose.

Rolex said the introduction of this box will ensure a 50% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions over its life cycle. The majority of these savings (46%) come from improvements in the material production phase.

Finally, the box's reduced weight — 12% lighter — decreases transport-related CO2 emissions by 2%, while its end-of-life disposal further reduces emissions by another 2%.

In IMSA Deal, Rolex Aims to Align Racing With Sustainability

(Photo courtesy of Rolex)

The Rolex 24 At Daytona, the flagship event of the International Motor Sports Association (IMSA), kicks off in less than three weeks at Daytona International Speedway.

Rolex, title sponsor since 1992, has announced an expansion of its partnership with IMSA starting in 2025 as its Official Timepiece. The news came just months after Rolex’s decision to not renew its Formula 1 contract and within a day of IMSA announcing a long-term co-sponsorship with the Environmental Protection Agency.

The timing of the announcements highlights Rolex’s strategic shift toward balancing the thrill of motorsports with its Perpetual Planet Initiative, as concerns continue to grow over the sport’s carbon footprint. F1 had pushed Rolex for a decade-long renewal of its commitment, but Rolex refused.

The new co-sponsorship between IMSA and EPA promotes Green Racing, a philosophy that uses motorsports to develop fuel efficient and environmentally friendly vehicle designs that can be used in consumer vehicles.

“Alongside IMSA, Rolex supports the development, growth and sustainability initiatives of the sport, teams and machines,” Arnaud Boetsch, Director of Communication & Image at Rolex, said in a statement.

Platinum Falls, But Remains Rolex’s Finest

(Photo credit: Wrist Aficionado)

A decade ago, platinum was more valuable than gold, but the tables have turned. Today, gold commands $2,656.30 per ounce, nearly triple platinum's $954.20.

Yet, at Rolex, platinum remains the “noblest of metals.” The metal’s purity and weight set it apart in the brand’s hierarchy. A Rolex Day-Date 40 in platinum is 48% more expensive than its gold counterpart, and the platinum Daytona commands a 67% premium — even after Rolex’s 14% increase on Daytona gold references this January.

The signature ice-blue dial, reserved for platinum Day-Date, Cosmograph Daytona and Perpetual 1908 models, underscores the metal’s elite status at Rolex.

Platinum has lost its luster as a safe-haven asset, a status gold retains during economic uncertainty, leading to declining demand and price pressures for platinum.

But in watchmaking, raw material costs tell only part of the story. The complexities of crafting platinum timepieces — its density, specialized machining requirements and the wear it imposes on tools — are what’s adding significant costs to manufacturing platinum watches.

(Data: Macrotrends)

Dear Rolex: Women Are Explorers, Too

Gina Moseley, left; Felicity Aston, right. (Photo credit: Rolex)

Dr. Gina Moseley, left, is a cave scientist and climate researcher who works in speleology and paleoclimatology, studying some of the world’s most remote cave systems to uncover critical insights into Earth's climate history.

Felicity Aston, right, is a polar explorer and a trained meteorologist who trekked across some of the most extreme environments on Earth, earning her a place on BBC’s list of 100 influential women. She is the first woman to ski solo across Antarctica.

Both scientists have gone on expeditions wearing the Rolex Explorer II, a watch traditionally designed for men.

Offering sizes tailored for women would be a testament to the growing number of women exploring the world to study and protect ecosystems. It would highlight that exploration is a universal endeavor, transcending gender boundaries and reflect the growing presence of women in STEM fields (science, technology, engineering and math).

A redesigned Explorer II would offer women explorers the full functionality of this iconic tool, combined with a fit that is comfortable to do their work of helping protect the planet.

Dr. Gina Moseley. (Photo credit: Rolex)

Rolex Innovates Watch Accuracy With Imaging

Rolex employees in an undated photo. (Credit: Rolex)

According to a patent made public Monday, Rolex said it has developed a new method to improve measurement accuracy which could revolutionize how mechanical watches are regulated in the future.

Instead of the traditional method of “hearing” the ticking sound of a watch over a short interval, Rolex's new approach would use advance imaging and a computer algorithm to determine movement transitions of the seconds hand — termed sauts in French, or “jumps” — with exceptional precision.

A series of images of the seconds hand would be captured at a frequency rate 10 to 20 times higher than the hand’s jump frequency. An image analysis program that can be run on a laptop, tablet or smartphone would pinpoint the exact moment a hand moves, including transitions from one stable position to another, a critical parameter for chronometric analysis.

Rolex engineers said using advanced imaging to focus on the dynamic behavior of a watch — rather than static measurements through ticking sounds — could help regulate watches with a precision higher than ever before.

Rolex’s new patent. (Credit: Rolex via Swissreg.ch)

In a First, Zuckerberg Seen Wearing a Rolex

(Photo credit: @zuck/Instagram)

Meta founder Mark Zuckerberg was seen for the first time wearing a Rolex, after he posted late Tuesday night a picture wishing his 15 million followers on Instagram a Happy New Year. The Rolex on the picture was first noticed by watch writer Nick Gould.

Since August, Zuckerberg has generated significant buzz in the horology world after he was spotted wearing remarkable timepieces, solidifying a growing trend of pairing casual attire with luxury watches — a style that could influence Silicon Valley, where smartwatches and Patagonia vests have long been the norm.

Zuck ended 2024 strong with a gold vintage Rolex. The watch on his wrist appears to be a “Paul Newman” Daytona 6239 champagne dial.

Rolex's Reason for Box Redesign: Sustainability

(Credit: @EverestBands/Instagram)

As the Swiss watch market continues to fight for relevance — industry data show that pricier watches but fewer units are exported from Switzerland every year — presentation boxes have played a bigger role than ever in a brand's storytelling, from exploration to exclusivity.

Still, Rolex's latest design changes for its packaging, the first in over a decade, are hardly perceptible, as reported by Coronet. But the materials used to construct the boxes are more consistent with the brand's ethos.

In a first, Rolex’s new boxes will ship with the mention indicating they are made from recycled materials. The mention will be found on the bottom side of the box and on the white outer sleeve, stating the box was “made from sustainable plywood and recycled cardboard. Covered with recycled leather.”

A Rolex on DiCaprio's Wrist, an Unusual Sight

These pages don’t typically chronicle the wrist-wearing habits of celebrities, but seeing Leonardo DiCaprio wear a Rolex is worth a write-up. Since 2023, the actor is an investor in the eco-friendly micro-brand ID Genève, as highlighted in Coronet’s Future of Milgauss long read.

Pictures of DiCaprio wearing a Rolex are extremely hard to come by. But last week, the actor sat court-side at a Lakers game, a white-gold Daytona in full view. The Rolex Daytona reference 116509, with its distinctive Arabic-numeral “Racing” dial, has been discontinued by the brand.

While the Daytona doesn't need more Hollywood stardust, its presence on the wrist of one of the biggest high-profile environmental advocates — also known to be selective in his wrist-wear choices — is an undeniable win for Rolex.

In Rare Video, Rolex Confronts Tragedy

Last year’s Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race. (Credit: Rolex)

Two sailors taking part in the Sydney to Hobart yacht race this week died in separate accidents during wild weather. Rolex is the title sponsor of the event, officially known as the Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race.

Through sponsorships, luxury brands tend to highlight values like excellence and prestige. But when tragedy strikes, acknowledging it — or not — can influence how customers perceive the brand’s empathy and authenticity.

The deaths were announced by the Australian authorities on Friday, Dec. 27. By Saturday, 10 a.m. Geneva time, Rolex had uploaded a YouTube video acknowledging the tragic accident in a rare tone for the brand, as it typically ties its posts to endurance and achievement.

“The race has been marked by tragedy,” Rolex wrote in the video description. “As a sign of respect for the sailors, crews, family and friends of the two yachts involved in the tragic accidents no organized celebrations were held for line honours nor will there be for the overall winner ahead of the final prizegiving on 31 December.”

Rolex Price Hike Goes Easy on Gem-Set Pieces

Rolex Daytona ref. 126598TBR and 126538TBR. (Credit: Rolex)

Starting Jan. 1, 2025, Rolex will raise the prices of all its yellow gold, white gold and Everose Daytona models by 14%. The price hike will be limited to 7% for the gem-set versions.

That’s because demand for diamonds has plunged, especially in China, leaving the global market with a glut of unsold diamonds, one of the biggest in 15 years.

The diamond market is facing also increased competition from the lab-grown variance, which costs about one-twentieth of a natural stone. Rolex says it does not use lab-grown alternatives and relies on its in-house gemology laboratory to certify the natural origin of all its diamonds.

Still, the appeal for lab-grown diamonds continues to expand, particularly in the U.S., the world’s largest luxury watch and diamond markets. Lab-grown diamonds eliminate the ecological disruption associated with mining. Rolex says it sources diamonds from a limited number of trusted suppliers and will soon introduce digital traceability.

Trump Tariffs Threaten to Compound Rolex Price Hike

Rolex is anticipated to raise prices on Jan. 1st, as first reported by Coronet. U.S.-based authorized Rolex dealers are bracing for another price surge following Jan. 21st, when President-elect Donald J. Trump begins his second term.

The Trump administration has threatened to impose across-the-board tariffs of up to 20% on exports from Europe, a move that risks affecting Rolex significantly in its largest market, just weeks after the brand would have raised prices by 7% on precious metal pieces.

Some luxury companies like LVMH have factories on U.S. soil. But Rolex controls almost every aspect of its production within Switzerland which has required significant investment in infrastructure and workforce. The brand is starting construction on a 1-billion-franc manufacturing facility in Bulle.

While Switzerland is not part of the European Union, the U.S. has historically imposed tariffs on various goods from Switzerland as part of broader trade measures.

Still, some believe the threat of tariffs serves as a starting point for negotiations. Scott Bessent, Trump’s pick for Treasury secretary, believes Trump “is a free trader.” “It’s escalate to de-escalate," he told the Financial Times in an interview in Oct. 2024.

On Rolex.com, New Uncluttered Visuals

(From Rolex.com)

Rolex streamlined the image of a display case on its website by removing the textured, wavy green pattern. While the shift might be small, it is a sign of the brand's ongoing design tweaks to cater to users' preference for clean and minimalist visuals.

The graphic showing the display case for all timepieces on Rolex.com now features a clean, plain beige background, a change from the wavy design which added an interesting artistic appeal but created a distraction from the product.

Rolex wants the viewer's attention to be directed at the timepiece when it is showcased, a typical strategy for a luxury brand presenting a product. The beige color also complements the Rolex's green banner atop the website.

(From Rolex.com)