The Desolation of Nautilus
Patek Philippe Nautilus for Tiffany ref. 5711/1A-018
I’ve previously mentioned my fear of the watch world becoming like the art world, more than once. I disdain the idea of things like watch NFTs actually becoming mainstream (thank God they haven’t) and watches increasingly being aimed at the ‘investment’ crowd, going for ever-more ridiculous prices at auction. Well, it’s happening. Maybe it’s a symptom of the industry itself, sure there are earnest collectors who actually care about what’s on their wrist more than what reaction it incites in the bottle girls at nightclubs in Miami. But perhaps those people, by virtue of them having a genuine interest in timepieces outside of the ‘growth’ they see on their Chrono24 collection, do not have enough influence in the industry? It’s very true that there are two distinct classes in the watch collecting world, the types that spend their evenings Googling “Most expensive Richard Mille” or “Best Richard Mille alternatives”, fantasizing about bottle girls at nightclubs in Miami. And the type that actually appreciates quality craftsmanship, genuine provenance, and creative design. Patek Philippe has clearly decided to cater to the former, and while on one hand I understand the short-term financial motivation, on the other hand I see it as a catastrophic move for the brand. This is akin to Hublot deciding to go for the ‘Grammy Awards crowd’ back in the 1990s, today finding itself the subject of widespread ridicule and internet memes, the Big Bang immediately giving away so much of the personality (or lack thereof) of any of its wearers.
Patek Philippe consciously made the decision to, instead of pursuing horological excellence like they’re ‘supposed’ to, become a band waggoner, following trends like a teenage girl. They bent to the whim of the masses. Something they once promised they’d never do. Alas, it is only in such an era of great hypocrisy and minimal accountability that such a thing could be allowed to happen. Long-term, I believe we will look back on this release and see it as the straw that broke the camel’s back and drove Patek Philippe from the heights of the Holy Trinity to be replaced by a more respectable brand.
And sure, I’m over-reacting. Who cares if Patek makes a Tiffany blue 5711 with “LVMH” stamped on the plastic-looking caseback? What’s the big deal? As someone who never saw any watch brand as immune to the disease of ‘clout-chasing’ I don’t care all that much to be honest. I’ve never much liked the Nautilus or wanted a watch designed to look like a watch that looked like a port-hole to be part of my collection. In fact, one could argue that the Nautilus design in itself succumbed to the whims of the masses all the way back in 1976, as Patek pretty blatantly copied the design of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak – itself desecrated when it was released in the toy-like Black Panther edition not too long ago. So, yes, I suppose in that sense my furious typing at my laptop is a visceral, emotional reaction to something that is viscerally repulsive. And why do people usually have these kinds of reactions? Quite simply the symbolism. This symbolizes to me, not only the ‘end’ of Patek Philippe as a watch brand to actually care about, but the concession of one of the last bastions of respectable horology in the watch world. It’s over boys. The fashionistas won. The most ‘Instagrammable’ is now the most desirable, even for what once seemed like the impenetrable fortress that was the watch world. Vanity has won.
Patek Philippe Nautlius ref. 5711/1A-018’s caseback stamped “LVMH”
But aren’t you just as vain as the guy with an Audemars Piguet Black Panther, just pretending you aren’t? Right on! It’s true, perhaps it’s just a façade, no one will ever know the truth, not even myself. Yes, you caught me! I lust after timepieces the size of my head that would look better on the wrist of Woody from Toy Story than an adult human male. But at least I’m good at keeping up the front, playing my role, if you will. Patek Philippe isn’t even trying anymore – and that’s what’s so outrageous, and tragic, to people who actually like watches and buy them for something other than getting 21-year-old OnlyFans models to ogle at their wrists while spending the equivalent of a down payment on bottles at a trashy club. And that, my friends, is the only person who I believe will be buying this embarrassment of a 5711. An archetype of a watch, for an archetype of a person.
Now, let’s actually take a look at the Patek Philippe x Tiffany x LVMH Nautilus ref. 5711 before we get carried away…
Patek Philippe released a limited edition of 170 Tiffany blue reference 5711/1A-018 Nautiluses, with “Tiffany” stamped on the dial and “LVMH” stamped on the caseback. The release of these new 5711s is meant to mark the 170-year anniversary of the partnership between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co., whose parent company became LVMH in late 2019. While the retail price is $52,635 USD, some have already been consigned by Tiffany & Co. to Phillips for an upcoming auction. I was going to say that Patek has almost sunk so low as to make timepieces implicitly designed for re-sale in auction, well they went a step further, doing it explicitly instead. Moreover, it could hint at some interest in Patek Philippe joining the LVMH family of brands, perhaps an even greater tragedy for horology.
Turquoise or ‘Tiffany’ blue Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36
In any event, while Patek Philippe might see this all as valuable PR, I’d question whether the old adage “any publicity is good publicity” actually applies to the watch world. Just ask Hodinkee. In my mind, this is the equivalent of Richemont adding a visible signature to a Panerai…in partnership with Tourneau…
In all fairness, Time and Tide did put together an excellent list of other brands that have used Tiffany blue in recent times, including Rolex. My larger point is, however, that we expect this kind of ‘design’ from brands like those mentioned in the list. Like I said, Patek Philippe was something like a last bastion of horological integrity and it seems that integrity is all but lost. I truly hope they relish in the measly 7-figure revenue and publicity they have garnered from this move, because while it may seem like a good idea in the short-term, I highly doubt this will have proven to be a fruitful decision 5, 10, or 50 years down the line.
By: Andres Ibarguen
Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 6146-8000 for sale on Toronto Vintage Watches
Editor’s note: Since writing, a Patek Philippe Nautilus for Tiffany ref. 5711/1A-018 sold for over $6 million USD in a Phillips auction and another was listed for $2.5 million USD on Jomashop. The retail price for Tiffany’s is $52,635 USD…