Rolex CEO Offers Rare Public Remarks at Dubai Watch Week

Dufour with Abdul Seddiqi on Nov. 19. (Credit: DWW)

Dubai Watch Week kicked off Wednesday with a rare public appearance from Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour, who turns 58 in two weeks. The event’s Director General, Hind Seddiqi, recently told the Luxury Society podcast that it was a member of her team who first floated the idea of inviting him to speak. “There's no harm in asking,” Seddiqi told her. “We asked, and he kindly accepted,” she said.

Dufour’s remarks at the event avoided the subject of tariffs, but he offered some insights into the brand (Coronet’s full story). He said Rolex’s long-term success rests on trust-based partnerships not only between the brand and the retailer but also the client. He described Certified Pre-Owned as a safeguard for consumers, and said innovation at Rolex means balancing tradition with advances such as the new escapement in the Land-Dweller.

On AI, Dufour said Rolex remains committed to human relationships and craftsmanship while investing in technology to improve product quality. Regarding the Bucherer acquisition, he offered a rare insight into the company’s long-term plan, saying they have “no intention to grow further than that. It was an opportunity, and we had to do it.” He added, “Now we are understanding the retail business a little better, and that is a good thing.”

Read more excerpts from Dufour’s latest remarks in Coronet’s Long Reads.

Gifted Rolex Clock No Longer on President’s Desk

Resolute, but not permanent. (Credit: The White House)

A Rolex desk clock that drew attention after five Swiss executives — including Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour — met with President Donald J. Trump in the Oval Office on Nov. 4 appears to have been removed from the Resolute Desk, according to photographs and video from a press conference on Monday. It was first noticed by Nick Gould on Instagram.

The press conference, live-streamed by the White House on YouTube, focused on the FIFA World Cup 2026 Task Force. The Oval Office was crowded with journalists and photographers, and the President was visible at his desk from multiple camera angles. The Rolex desk clock was nowhere to be seen.

The clock was one of two items from the Swiss delegation and was still visible last Wednesday, when President Trump signed the bill to reopen the government, one full week after it had been gifted by Dufour. It’s unclear why the clock has suddenly been removed, while the engraved gold bar from the delegation is still there.

(Credit: The White House)

For the Biggest Night of His Career, Cruise Chose Rolex

Mission accomplished. (Photo: X/@DeanSalamouras)

Tom Cruise accepted an honorary Oscar for “extraordinary distinction in lifetime achievement” on Sunday in a room filled with actors and directors, including Leonardo DiCaprio and Steven Spielberg. The 63-year-old actor, who until now had never lifted the statuette in a 44-year film career, chose a Rolex Day-Date with a mother-of-pearl dial for the occasion. Cruise is not a Testimonee for Rolex.

Until recently, Rolex refrained from signing Hollywood actors to represent the brand. On a roster that already includes 30 tennis players and 58 golfers, Rolex added its first actor this year when it announced Leonardo DiCaprio, followed by Zendaya last month. Cruise and Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour met at Wimbledon last year, and the actor is seen wearing Rolex more frequently than any other brand.

Rolex has historically avoided celebrity partnerships built on fame alone, choosing instead to link its image to achievement through excellence. Cruise, a protégé of the late Paul Newman, is the only A-list actor who personally performs high-risk stunts, including HALO jumps, wing-walking, motorcycle cliff-dives, high-G aerial maneuvers and advanced helicopter flying. He is known for extreme preparation before each stunt and precision while executing it.

Yet on Sunday, he spent more time honoring others than himself during his 10-minute remarks, a class act by any measure. If Rolex wants to align itself even further with a legacy of excellence, precision and professionalism, it could do worse than signing Cruise.

While Rolex Secured ‘1908,’ Tudor Is Denied ‘1926’

Time-marked. (Photo credit: Hodinkee)

It was less than three weeks before the start of Watches and Wonders 2023 that Rolex filed a trademark application for a collection it was about to unveil, named after the year Rolex was officially founded. It managed to register not only “Perpetual 1908” but also “1908.”

Now, Montres Tudor SA, on the eve of its centennial, is hoping to do the same with “1926.” But a recent case shows that the approval — or rejection — of a trademark application, even among sister brands, may depend more on the examiner du jour than on consistency.

An examiner at the European Union Intellectual Property Office denied Tudor’s filing, saying trademarking 1926 was not distinctive enough. In its appeal, Tudor cited incohérence, or inconsistency, noting that several four-digit marks had been registered, “including, in particular, International Registration No. 1749806 designating the European Union for the mark 1908,” referring to Rolex. Tudor has used a collection named “1926” since 2018, predating Rolex’s launch of the “1908.”

After its appeal failed, Tudor brought action before the General Court of the European Union. The General Court agreed that a reference to a historic year signals tradition and durability, yet found that 1926 was still not distinctive enough to be trademarked and ultimately decided against Tudor. As for allowing Rolex’s 1908 registration, the General Court said that a decision by one EUIPO examiner does not bind the Boards of Appeal or the General Court and cannot justify maintaining an unlawful registration. Tudor’s final appeal rejected, the Court ordered the brand to pay the costs.

For Rolex’s Land-Dweller, the Market Hasn’t Landed Yet

Losing altitude. (Data: WatchCharts)

Actor Leonardo DiCaprio’s 40mm Land-Dweller in steel and white gold was clearly visible at Jane Goodall’s funeral at the Washington National Cathedral on Wednesday. The watch has remained a favorite among celebrities since its debut seven months ago, appearing on Tom Cruise’s wrist on April 6, less than a week after its announcement. Housed in a case that is 20% thinner than the Datejust, its new 7135 calibre is “a true milestone in the history of Rolex watches,” the brand said, the result of more than seven years of development.

Today, the Land-Dweller stands as the strongest performer tracked by WatchCharts in terms of value retention. It trades at a higher premium to retail than any other watch in the database, not just Rolex. It is hard to overstate how unusual this is for a model in the Classic line.

But the story here is that prices on the secondary market remain in decline despite the high premiums these models command. The 40mm, the 36mm and the 36mm in rose gold all continue to fall from their initial highs. As more pieces reach the market, pricing appears to be settling into a more familiar trajectory for a new watch, a sign that the market is still adjusting to the strong opinions that surrounded the model’s launch. It suggests that buyers unable to secure a piece at an Official Rolex Jeweler may do well to wait.

Leonardo DiCaprio. (Photo: leonardo-dicaprio.net)

In Tariff Talks, Rolex Finds New Publicity

Ticking in Rolex’s favor. (Photo credit: Rolex)

When Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour appeared smiling next to President Donald J. Trump at the U.S. Open in September, the image startled even the Swiss. Now, Rolex’s months-long charm offensive, capped by last week’s White House visit, appears to be paying off with a public-relations win.

Among the Swiss executives who met with Trump, Rolex was the most recognizable brand, and its newly gifted desk clock quickly drew attention. Hodinkee published excerpts from Dufour’s accompanying letter describing the clock as “a gift to the people of the United States.” The language was likely intentional given Swiss criminal law’s strict ban on “bribery of foreign public officials.”

If the tariff is ultimately reduced from 39% to 15%, as is now expected, it would mark a publicity coup for Rolex in a country whose largest single export market is the United States. President Karin Keller-Sutter of Switzerland and Economics Minister Guy Parmelin have not succeeded in speaking to Trump in person. Trump, addressing the negotiations on Tuesday, said that “Rolex has been very nice,” a sign of how much the brand has figured in the administration’s interest in lowering tariffs.

The reduction would come at a time when Rolex is preparing its 2026 price list, and an increase in prices is all but inevitable given gold’s rise, which is up 41% since Rolex last adjusted its prices, on Jan. 1, 2025. The franc is also up about 13% against the dollar this year. Several watch brands, including Patek Philippe, have already raised U.S. prices in response to the 39% tariffs, but Rolex has held back.

Four Rolexes Cross the Million Mark at Phillips Geneva

Time well spent: Sotto and Pagoda. (Photo credit: Phillips)

The top Rolex lot at Phillips this weekend was a newly surfaced Oyster Sotto Paul Newman Daytona Ref. 6263, which had remained in one family for decades before being acquired by the current consignor. The Sotto is considered the most elusive variant among steel Paul Newman Daytonas, with fewer than 30 known. This example’s well-preserved case (pictured, left) and original warranty added to its appeal. Estimated at CHF 400,000 to 800,000 and sold for CHF 1,391,000, it outperformed the high estimate by 74%, the latest sign of a strong vintage market. The Sotto was one of four Rolex watches to cross the CHF 1 million threshold at the auction.

Among them was an 18-kt yellow-gold Rolex Daytona (pictured, right) nicknamed the “Golden Pagoda,” which realized CHF 1,079,500. The reference 6239, one of the earliest Daytonas produced in gold, still retains its factory sticker and sports a champagne “Paul Newman” dial that has aged evenly. Phillips described the watch as “the white whale of watch collecting.”

Not to be outdone at the same Geneva event, a Patek Philippe 1518 fetched CHF 12 million, setting a new record for a Patek wristwatch sold at auction and proving the resilience of the vintage watch market amid economic uncertainty.

Rolex Passes on the Watch That Started It All

Making a splash. (Photo credit: Sotheby’s)

At Sotheby’s Geneva auction on Sunday, the watch that once belonged to Rolex’s first brand ambassador sold for $1.73 million, exceeding its high estimate by half a million. The winning bidder of the Rolex “Companion Oyster” was a private collector from Asia, following fierce competition among four parties. When the same piece was sold twenty-five years ago, it fetched just £17,000.

British swimmer Mercedes Gleitze wore this very Rolex Oyster during her 1927 “Vindication Swim,” according to Sotheby’s. Rolex built an entire campaign around her achievement, publishing a full-page advertisement in the Daily Mail. For nearly a century since, the brand has described that moment as the birth of the modern Oyster and a turning point for both Rolex and watchmaking as a whole.

Still, Rolex strangely chose to pass on this one, even as it has quietly built a collection worthy of a museum. It’s unclear whether the brand took part in the bidding, but given its financial strength, it likely wasn’t outbid. It simply chose not to buy.

On the Resolute Desk, a New Clock That Looks a Lot Like a Rolex

Oyster in Chief. (Photo credit: The White House)

Since the visit of Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour and four other Swiss executives to the Oval Office last Tuesday, a new object has surfaced on the Resolute Desk. Rumors from Switzerland have suggested that President Donald J. Trump received a Rolex from the Swiss delegation along with gold bars, but no one could say which model it was.

Now, a new object, first spotted by Watches of Espionage on Instagram, seems to confirm the rumor. Recent White House photos show a gold desk clock with a green dial and a fluted bezel reminiscent of a Rolex Datejust on the president’s desk. A Cyclops-style magnifier over the date window reinforces the resemblance.

Little is known about the Datejust-like desk clock, which is unavailable at retailers and does not appear on Rolex’s official website. It might even be a unique piece made for the U.S. president. Still, its design matches a model Rolex recently introduced: the Submariner Desk Clock ref. 909010LN, which is powered by the analog-digital quartz Caliber 8335 featuring a rare secular calendar that remains accurate until 2400. The seconds hand moves more smoothly than a standard quartz movement.

Whether the clock was a personal gift from Rolex to President Trump remains unconfirmed, but its presence marks a notable moment in the brand’s history. Rolex watches have adorned presidential wrists before, yet never has a Rolex clock sat in plain view on the Resolute Desk.

A New Book About Hans Wilsdorf, With a Twist

Christian Rupprecht. (Photo credit: Jürgen Gärtner)

A new book about Rolex’s founder takes an unusual approach. German author Christian Rupprecht, a theologian with a doctorate, released his novel on Hans Wilsdorf earlier this week. While many have attempted to chart Wilsdorf’s life, Rupprecht’s unique version is worth a write-up. The book is surprisingly engaging. Written like a film biopic, it brings Hans Wilsdorf to life, weaving facts into narrative fiction and reading more like a light novel than a historical tome meant for scholarship.

Rupprecht chose storytelling after concluding that, despite his research, there wasn’t enough documentation for a conventional biography. His 400-page novel, Rolex: Der Traum des Hans Wilsdorf (“Rolex: The Dream of Hans Wilsdorf”), follows Wilsdorf’s path from his Bavarian childhood through London and Geneva, outlining his ambition and pursuit of perfection, traits that would turn his modest company into an international symbol of success.

The book was just released in German, with no English edition available yet. But Coronet has translated an authorized excerpt for your enjoyment. You can read it here.

Rolex’s New Link to a Global Shipping Empire

Alexa and Diego Aponte. (Photo courtesy: MSC)

Diego Aponte, heir to one of Switzerland’s wealthiest families and president of Geneva-based MSC, the world’s largest container shipping group, is said to have played a key role in arranging the White House meeting earlier this week by enlisting former Trump diplomat Carlos Trujillo. Aponte himself, however, was reportedly absent from the Oval Office “due to a scheduling conflict.”

His sister, Alexa Aponte, MSC’s chief financial officer, joined Rolex’s board of directors last month, the first new appointment since Michel Juvet in 2022 and among the few women serving alongside Anne Bobillier.

Like Rolex, MSC is a closely held and famously private company. It is run by one of Switzerland’s most prominent families. “We grew up more in the office than outside it. This is our family,” Alexa, the founder’s daughter, once said. The Apontes live quietly in several villas around Geneva, and Forbes estimates their fortune at 63 billion francs. Diego has previously worked with Trump’s allies on a proposed deal to acquire Chinese-owned port terminals through a partnership with BlackRock, including two along the Panama Canal, a project that aligned with Trump’s push to expand U.S. influence over the region.

By bringing MSC’s chief financial officer onto its board of directors, Rolex has linked itself to one of the world’s most powerful logistics networks and, indirectly, to the trade interests now circling Washington.

Jean-Frédéric Dufour in D.C.: An Analysis

A Swiss movement. (Photo credit: The White House)

It's been since 1977 that a Rolex CEO set foot in the White House, when André Heiniger joined a delegation of European business leaders organized by Time magazine. Nearly half a century later, the head of a brand known for staying out of politics is again in the Oval Office, alongside a handful of Swiss executives, a sign of the gravity facing the Helvetic country.

Still, Dufour has remained cool-headed, showing restraint and appearing to be playing the long game even amid the urgency of the moment. When he met Trump face to face at the U.S. Open in September, a feat not even the Swiss government had managed, he kept the exchange personal rather than political and did not mention tariffs.

Now, in Washington, even as a steep 39-percent tariff looms over Switzerland, the CEO of the world’s most important watch brand said he avoided “direct negotiation.” The goal, according to a joint statement later released by the businessmen, was to show “support for the ongoing dialogue” between the two countries “in a constructive spirit.” In a photo first published by Hodinkee, Dufour, whose roots lie in the city most associated with diplomacy, is seen seated front and center, directly facing Trump.

Yet, his approach, according to those who’ve known him, is never confrontational, a sharp contrast to Trump's style. Where the U.S. president is known for impulsiveness and showmanship, Dufour has shown discretion and restraint. Perhaps it’s because he knows his industry has survived countless crises over the centuries — and will surely survive this one.

Trump Meets With Rolex Chief Jean-Frédéric Dufour in Washington

Time for diplomacy. (Photo credit: WHHA)

Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour traveled to Washington, D.C., earlier this week for a meeting with President Donald J. Trump, joined by a small group of Swiss business leaders.

The meeting was not publicly disclosed. On Tuesday evening, Trump posted on social media that it had been his “Great Honor to just meet with high level Representatives of Switzerland.” He was joined by his son Eric and daughter-in-law Lara, neither of whom holds a government position.

According to people familiar with the meeting, who spoke on condition of anonymity, Johann Rupert, chairman of Richemont, was also present, along with Daniel Jaeggi, co-founder of energy trader Mercuria, and Alfred Gantner, co-founder of Partners Group.

The Swiss government confirmed it had been informed of the visit and said it provided support during preparations, but noted that the discussions took place “independently of the Federal Council’s involvement in this matter.”

Rolex’s Deepsea Challenge Resurfaces in a Changing Era

A deeper purpose. (Photo courtesy: Rolex)

Rolex will loan the experimental Rolex Deepsea Challenge watch that accompanied James Cameron on his 2012 solo dive to the Mariana Trench to the Australian National Maritime Museum until next August, for its exhibition on deep-sea exploration titled “Ultimate Depth: A Journey to the Bottom of the Sea.” In hindsight, the watch represents a turning point in Rolex’s tradition of exploration.

If Cameron approached the brand today to sponsor a dive to the ocean’s deepest point, it might hesitate. Rolex’s view of exploration has evolved since the days of Hillary and Norgay, Piccard and Walsh, and even Cameron’s solo dive. It now supports expeditions to help protect the planet rather than explore for exploration’s sake.

Still, the watch on Cameron’s submersible was a feat of engineering, designed and built in Rolex labs in just over four weeks. When Rolex tested it in la cuve UHP, tension filled the room. Employees had gathered and watched as it endured pressures equal to 15,000 metres, a record. When the watch emerged unscathed, the room erupted in applause, a rare burst of emotion from the usually reserved Swiss brand.

It was one of the last moments when pure exploration drove Rolex to innovate. Today, deep-sea or mountaineering projects backed by the brand are environmentally framed, often studying coral reefs or glacial melt.

Even Cameron’s watch is now presented through that lens. Rolex Australia’s managing director, Benoît Falleti, said he was honored to provide the museum with a “true icon of exploration.”

“This unique opportunity underscores Rolex’s ongoing commitment to innovation and human endeavor, to better understand and protect the planet,” he said.

New Rolex USA Building Almost Ready

(Photo credit: Michael Young)

Construction is nearly finished at 665 Fifth Avenue, the new U.S. headquarters for Rolex in Midtown Manhattan. Designed by David Chipperfield Architects and developed by Rolex Realty Company, the 28-story tower stands at the corner of Fifth Avenue and East 53rd Street. The project is expected to be completed by the end of the year, with a grand opening planned for 2026. Coronet previously published photos of the old Rolex U.S.A. building during its demolition.

The new 469-foot-tall structure will provide 199,000 square feet of office and retail space for Rolex, arranged in three stacked sections, each set back slightly as it rises. The first four floors will contain retail and public areas, referred to as the “Point of Sale & Lobby,” while Levels 5 through 25 will be used for office space. The top two floors — Levels 27 and 28 — will be dedicated for private dining and events for Rolex guests.

See more pictures of the new Rolex USA building here.

In Bulle, Rolex Plans to Extend Its Footprint Again

More land-dwelling in Bulle. (Map: City of Bulle)

Rolex is seeking to acquire additional land in Bulle, Switzerland, as work progresses on its new manufacturing site, slated to open in 2029, with the signing of a sale contract expected soon. The acquisition would give the brand control of an adjacent parcel, allowing for potential future expansion to the northeast of its 100,000-square-meter production complex, a sign it expects production to continue growing even amid new economic uncertainties.

Rolex is in talks to acquire the former premises of Progin SA, a metal-industry company that went bankrupt last year after four decades of operation. The site, adjacent to Rolex’s future production campus now rising on the edge of town, is being sold by the cantonal bankruptcy office. Once the purchase is completed, the brand would gain control of a strategically located parcel that could allow it to extend its industrial complex.

The Progin building is a modern glass-and-steel structure completed in 2006. Still, it’s unclear whether it fits into Rolex’s plans to expand its manufacture. The property is not listed as a protected site, leaving Rolex free to retain or demolish it as it integrates the parcel into its new campus.

Rolex Adds Accessories to Its Website, a First for the Brand

(From Rolex.com)

Rolex has introduced a new “Accessories” section on its official website, the first time the brand has listed non-watch products online. The page features 18-carat gold cufflinks inspired by Rolex design motifs such as the fluted bezel and crown emblem, along with a desk clock styled after the Submariner Date. According to Rolex, the accessories “reflect the visual codes of the brand while meeting the same high standards in terms of quality and reliability as those of any Rolex watch.”

Coronet reported Rolex’s plans to introduce accessories on its website back in September, giving new visibility to items previously available only through Official Jewelers. For Rolex enthusiasts, the introduction of accessories creates a new entry point into the brand. Still, prices remain firmly within the luxury tier, with gold cufflinks starting above $5,000. The Submariner desk clock is listed at $10,270.

The move is not unique in the industry. Patek Philippe maintains a “Jewelry & Accessories” section on its website that includes cufflinks, rings and earrings. Rolex’s new section is the latest sign it sees demand for jewelry items that extend beyond watches.