Robert Redford. (Photo credit: Jake’s Rolex World)
Robert Redford’s death this week has drawn new attention not only to his films but to the Rolex Single-Red Submariner, reference 1680, he wore in them.
His own watch appeared in several movies, including in “All the President’s Men” and “The Candidate,” as naturally as in private life. It’s worth asking if that authenticity, embodied in a single lived-in watch, did more for Rolex than any campaign.
Redford, Paul Newman and Steve McQueen each made a single model inseparable from their image. By contrast, Roger Federer rotates through different references at every appearance. And while the exposure of Rolex’s collection is wide, the depth is more limited. Wearing a Datejust one day and a Sky-Dweller the next doesn’t create the same lasting identity that Newman or Redford did. The question for Rolex is whether the brand would benefit more from cultivating icons of one watch, rather than ambassadors of many. (None of those movie stars were on Rolex’s payroll, ironically.)
Coronet believes Rolex’s most enduring brand equity comes from one-watch icons. The $17.8 million sale of Newman’s own Daytona nearly eight years ago cemented Rolex’s reputation as the ultimate collector’s brand, proving that a rare handful of lived-in watches can outweigh any ad campaign.
For a maker of “Perpetual” timepieces, Rolex should celebrate those who wear one watch for a lifetime, day in and day out. World No. 1 Carlos Alcaraz has worn the turquoise-blue dial Daytona at every match and press conference since its release, and Hodinkee has already begun calling it “The Alcaraz.” (Asking watch-obsessive John Mayer to wear only “The John Mayer” would be impossible.)
Leonardo DiCaprio, a Testimonee only since February, presents a rare opportunity for the brand to recreate that magic. The key isn’t giving the actor a collection of watches; it’s having him wear one that defines him.