As Rolex Focuses on Gold Pieces, Gold Soars to All-Time Highs

Gold futures, past five years, as of Apr. 11. (Source: FactSet)

Gold has reached a new all-time high as investors turn to traditional safe-haven assets amid ongoing market volatility.

Meanwhile, and for the second year in a row, Rolex has centered much of its new collection around gold, including the most accessible version of the Land-Dweller, made in white Rolesor, its signature blend of white gold and steel.

On Friday, gold reached an intraday high of $3,246.80 per troy ounce, as economic uncertainty amid tariff threats increased demand.

The new yellow-gold Daytona with turquoise blue dial. (Credit: Rolex)

At the same time, Rolex has increased the number of gold models in its lineup, while new steel releases have become less frequent. The brand introduced just three dial colors for its Oyster Perpetual line this year; the rest of the new collection was released in precious metals, including platinum.

Platinum, once more valuable than gold, has declined over the past year and now trades at roughly $948 per ounce, about one-third the price of gold.

Still, for Rolex, platinum continues to sit at the top of the materials hierarchy, referred to as the “noblest of metals” by the brand. A platinum Land-Dweller 40 is priced 38% higher than its Everose gold equivalent, while the platinum Daytona commands a 67% premium.

But the rarity of a material only tells part of the story. The added cost reflects also the complexity of working with platinum, an exacting metal that demands specialized tools, time and expertise.

New Rolex Magazine Is Shipping to Retailers

(Credit: Rolex)

The 13th issue of Rolex Magazine is arriving at an authorized dealer near you. Like the previous edition, it contains 150 pages and is free.

From the launch of the Land-Dweller and the new Settimo bracelet to the enduring impact of Rolex Testimonees, the magazine presents Rolex’s 2025 watches through a series of in-depth features.

This is the second year in a row that “THE ROLEX MAGAZINE” appears in bold on the cover, helping distinguish it from a standard watch catalog.

The importance of the Land-Dweller release for Rolex is hard to overstate. The model is featured on the cover of the magazine. But the brand has also published a separate book dedicated to it, titled “Land-Dweller: Opening New Horizons,” which will be available at retailers.

More Gold Than Steel in New Releases Could Hint at a Trend

(Photo credit: Rolex)

Rolex kept things relatively quiet on the steel front this year, introducing just a few new dial colors (lavender, beige and pistachio) for its Oyster Perpetual line. Last year, the only steel release was a GMT-Master II with a black and grey bezel, a look already available in a two-tone version.

Most of the other updates focused on precious metals, including its cheapest Land-Dweller model, made in white Rolesor, Rolex’s combination of white gold and steel.

The gold focus hasn’t gone unnoticed by Coronet, prompting questions about whether it’s a strategy to move the brand upscale.

While precious-metal pieces have sold well since the post-Covid period, they could move more slowly now amid uncertainties in the global market.

The new Datejust 31 with red ombré dial. (Rolex)

Still, with each passing year, the number of precious-metal watches released by the brand has increased, while steel releases have become more rare. This begs the question whether Rolex is gradually moving further upmarket, not abandoning steel entirely, but possibly giving more attention to higher-end materials.

Rolex told Coronet it doesn’t quite see it that way. While acknowledging the strong presence of gold in this year’s releases, the brand points to the Oyster Perpetual line as an example of its ongoing commitment to steel. The company highlights its use of fresh dial colors and new finishes, especially on the OP 41. For now, at least, Rolex maintains that there’s no official shift in direction.

The new Daytona with bright green and golden dial. (Rolex)

3 Questions for Rolex's Head of Movements

Rolex’s new 7135 movement. (Photo credit: Rolex)

Frank Vernay serves as the Head of Movement Development at Rolex. Recently, Vernay has been instrumental in the development of the Dynapulse escapement, a groundbreaking mechanism equipping the Land-Dweller.

Where does the Dynapulse escapement stand in terms of progress in watchmaking?

The Dynapulse escapement constitutes a new technical signature for Rolex. It is a revolution in watchmaking while remaining true to our brand’s fundamental principles and traditions. This sequential distribution escapement particularly offers high energy efficiency, approximately 30 per cent more than a conventional Swiss lever escapement, while taking up no more space. Thanks to the Dynapulse escapement, Rolex can now extend the family of 71XX movements with the addition of a 5 Hz calibre.

The groundwork for this high-performance escapement began around 10 years ago. It has taken time for the project to mature and for us to get to where we are today, with a solution covered by a total of seven patent applications. Much of the work concentrated on simplifying the shape of the wheels and the impulse rocker so that these components could be made out of silicon. Fitting such a complex mechanism into the same space as a conventional Swiss lever escapement constituted a real technological challenge, as did the production and pre-assembly of the small components in silicon. Then, assembling the Dynapulse escapement in the calibre entailed a complete rethink of our movement manufacturing and assembly processes.

What were the challenges in increasing the movement frequency?

Increasing the frequency from 4 Hz to 5 Hz constitutes a major step for Rolex in the history of precision. The higher a movement’s frequency, the more quickly it consumes the energy supplied by the self-winding system. This energy consumption needed to be optimized.

We therefore completely redesigned the escapement, enabling us to offer the same power reserve as that of calibre 7140. Suitable solutions also had to be found to guarantee the movement’s reliability. The new rate also meant modifying our algorithms and measuring equipment. Additionally, we had to develop a diagnostic system to validate the functioning of the Dynapulse escapement in each assembled movement prior to casing, given that there is no longer any pallet stone adjustment as in a traditional Swiss lever escapement.

For the owner of the watch, what are the practical advantages in everyday wear?

A higher frequency confers greater stability to the rate of the watch in all circumstances. Robustness and reliability are enhanced, no matter the activity the wearer may be engaged in.

From Archive to Avant-Garde: Rolex Returns to the Future

(Watch photo credit: Rolex)

Elements from past decades, such as those from the 1970s or 1980s, often resurface in new forms without being nostalgic on purpose. In an interview with Coronet, Rolex acknowledged the integrated bracelet is in vogue today, but emphasized that the concept dates back to its own archives: the 1969 Rolex Quartz and a 1974 two-tone Datejust.

Rolex launched its latest collection on April 1 at exactly 12:01 a.m. Geneva time, a shift from the originally planned 8:30 a.m. The change came not from Rolex, but from Watches and Wonders, responding to requests from several brands aiming to hit the printing press before deadline while capturing both the U.S. market (still awake) and the Asian market (just starting their day).

A day before the official reveal, Roger Federer posted ski trip photos on Instagram, wearing the new Rolex on his wrist. A Rolex source told me it wasn’t part of a planned campaign, marking the first unscheduled reveal by a brand ambassador. “Nothing was officially coordinated,” the source said.

1969 Rolex Quartz (L) and 1974 Datejust (R). (Rolex)

Rolex told me the development of the new model stemmed from a challenge issued internally from the office of general management. The memo included a drawing of a futuristic city and a photo of a grassy cliff. The idea was that a new product would share nomenclature with the Sea-Dweller and the Sky-Dweller.

The challenge proposed by management aimed to push technical boundaries without compromising the brand’s four pillars: chronometric precision, power reserve, waterproofness and magnetic resistance.

Thinness was also a key requirement. Central to this ambition was a new movement years in the making: the calibre 7135, operating at a higher frequency of 5 Hz to better protect precision during everyday activities. Rolex described the new calibre to me as “a revolution in watchmaking performance.”

(Photo credit: Clement Entretemps)

Named the Land-Dweller, the new collection would reflect a philosophy of connection between the wearer and their environment. “Whether in the heart of the city or deep in the country,” Rolex said, “the Land-Dweller is a symbol of harmony between the wearer and their world.”

Rolex typically phases its releases, starting with precious metals before introducing steel. But Rolex seems serious about the Land-Dweller line: 10 variants launched simultaneously, in 36mm and 40mm sizes, offered in platinum, Everose gold and white Rolesor, with fluted or diamond-set bezel options.

The calibre took seven years to develop and required new machinery and custom industrial processes. With such investment behind it, Rolex signals this innovation is more than a one-off and will likely carry the movement beyond this debut collection.

Rolex Secures Prime Zurich Address

(Photo credit: Marc-Christian Riebe)

As the watch world turns its attention to Geneva for Watches and Wonders this week, Rolex is expanding its footprint beyond horology. The brand has acquired Bahnhofstrasse 40 in Zurich, one of Europe’s most prestigious retail addresses. The purchase was made through Marconi Investments, Rolex’s real estate arm, as confirmed by the Zurich land registry.

The building's most notable tenant is Chopard, which operates a boutique on the ground floor. According to industry sources, there is no plan to remove the existing tenants, as Rolex already owns a boutique just a few doors down, operated by Bucherer.

The purchase price for Bahnhofstrasse 40 is estimated at around 140 million Swiss francs. The address ranks among the most expensive retail streets in the world, with rents surpassed only by a few top locations in cities like Milan, London, and Paris.

In late 2023, Rolex purchased a property on another prestigious luxury shopping street in Switzerland, the Rue du Rhône in Geneva, as reported by Coronet.

3 Questions for Rolex's Head of Design

Davide Airoldi is the head of design at Rolex, where he leads a team of 18, including six core designers. He joined Rolex 16 years ago and played a key role in developing the new Land-Dweller — a project that began five years ago with a design brief from Rolex management.

The memo contained earthbound sources of inspiration — a line drawing of a futuristic city and an image of a grassy cliff. The idea was for a new product to share nomenclature with the Sea-Dweller and Sky-Dweller while honoring “those well-grounded men and women who build their own destinies,” according to Rolex. The brief also called for a modern watch inspired by the integrated bracelet designs of the ref. 5100 and ref. 1630.

What was the main aesthetic challenge in designing the Land-Dweller?

“A model to be inspired by our aesthetic heritage but looking to the future.” This was the brief for the design of the Land-Dweller. Finding a harmonious balance between these two worlds was certainly our biggest challenge. We came up with creative new codes without ever losing sight of the brand’s DNA or its style. At the same time, we integrated technical innovations from the Research and Development Division in the most refined and elegant way possible.

Why did you opt for alternate polished and satin finishes?

Our choice of alternate satin and polished finishes reprises an aesthetic code already present on a number of Classic models. The polished facets and chamfers alongside the flat, technical satin-finished surfaces produce a striking contrast that brings the Land-Dweller to life, with the multitude of reflections highlighting the watch’s refinement.

What are the benefits of a Rolex watch with an integrated bracelet?

In terms of comfort, the broader bracelet means that there is a larger area of contact with the wrist. The watch therefore sits more securely and is better positioned. In terms of appearance, the visual fluidity between the Flat Jubilee bracelet and the Oyster case lends great elegance to the Land-Dweller, which is as robust and reliable as other Rolex watches. Everything comes together to make this new watch an ideal timepiece for all occasions.

Rolex Quietly Retires Its Most Playful Watch

Tom Holland. (Photo credit: LADbible)

Rolex has officially discontinued its Oyster Perpetual “Celebration Dial,” just two years after its debut. Released in 2023, the watch featured a turquoise dial scattered with playful, multicolored bubbles.

Tom Holland wore it during a puppy interview with LADbible (above), while others like Lionel Messi, Tom Brady, Mark Wahlberg, Shah Rukh Khan, Timothée Chalamet and Conor McGregor were also spotted wearing the piece. With Rolex pulling the model in 2025, resale prices of those left on the market are expected to climb.

The move fits a recent Rolex pattern — releasing unique designs, then retiring them early — boosting desirability by setting a precedent for short production runs.

New Book Charts Rolex Business Story

(Photo credit: Manchester University Press)

A new book by business historian Pierre-Yves Donzé, “The Making of a Status Symbol: A Business History of Rolex,” explores how Rolex became more than a watchmaker; it became shorthand for success. Rather than focusing solely on product innovation, the brand turned its attention to storytelling, highlighting the aspirations of its consumers. This shift helped Rolex navigate industry upheavals, including the quartz crisis, which weakened many Swiss rivals focused primarily on precision.

Donzé, a professor at Osaka University, looks at more than 100 years of Rolex history to show how the brand built a global identity through smart strategy. Leaders like former CEO André Heiniger focused on reputation over product innovation, growing the brand while keeping its message tightly controlled. The result was a product positioned as “accessible luxury” — attainable, yet still exclusive — an approach that set Rolex apart from traditional luxury brands.

Originally published in French in 2024 as “La Fabrique de l’excellence,” the English edition — with minor updates — is scheduled for release on Jun. 3, 2025, and is currently available for pre-order. Readers can find my full review of Donzé’s 272-page book in this month’s Long Reads.

Countdown to Rolex’s Longest Journey in Space

(Photo credit: GCTC)

When NASA astronaut Dr. Jonny Kim launches aboard Soyuz MS-27 on April 8, bound for a 240-day mission aboard the International Space Station, he’ll bring more than a résumé that reads like fiction. The former Navy SEAL, Harvard-trained physician and now astronaut will also carry a Rolex GMT-Master II.

It’s not the first time a Rolex is in space. Edgar Mitchell, Ron Evans, Jack Swigert and others brought their personal Rolex GMT-Master watches on Apollo missions. More recently, Saudi astronaut Ali AlQarni took his modern GMT Pepsi to space on the Ax-2 mission in 2023. But Kim’s 240-day journey will likely mark the longest a Rolex has ever been off the planet.

Kim’s résumé reads like a script from an action-hero movie, except it’s all real. After a tough upbringing as the son of an immigrant family, who owned a liquor store in Los Angeles, he enlisted in the military at the age of 18 and became a Navy SEAL with over 100 combat missions in the Middle East. He was trained as a combat medic, sniper and navigator — and eventually achieved the rank of lieutenant commander, earning a Silver Star and Bronze Star. He went on to graduate from Harvard as a medical doctor before being selected as a NASA astronaut out of 18,300 applicants — all by the age of 33.

“I'm fascinated by anything that is challenging,” he once said on a podcast.

In space, where every item is calculated and weighed, a Rolex GMT-Master will once again orbit Earth, ticking in sync with a man who has made a life of defying gravity.

Lost Rolex History: Bao Dai's 1955 Submariner Photo

Bao Dai. (Credit: Edward Quinn via @niccoloy/Instagram)

Watch writer and researcher Nick Gould uncovered earlier this week a remarkable piece of Rolex history: a 1955 photograph showing Bao Dai, the last emperor of Vietnam, in Cannes, France, wearing what appears to be a Rolex Submariner. Jake's Rolex World was first to report the news.

Bao Dai is already well-known in collectors' circles for having owned an ultra-rare Rolex reference 6062, which set records when it sold for 5 million Swiss francs at a Phillips auction in 2017. This 1955 photograph shows that his appreciation for Rolex extended beyond dress watches. If found, this Submariner could be one of the earliest known examples linked to a prominent figure.

The discovery is the latest sign of Rolex's competitive advantage as a brand, with a (still-emerging) history that seems bottomless. As provenance keeps shaping the watch world, every piece of Rolex history that resurfaces only adds to the brand equity.

For the First Time, DiCaprio Seen Wearing the Daytona Le Mans

Leonardo DiCaprio. (Photo credit: @dicaprio.photos/Instagram)

Leonardo DiCaprio, now an official Rolex Testimonee, was spotted courtside at a Los Angeles Lakers game with his father, George DiCaprio, stepmother Peggy Ann and niece Normandie DiCaprio — wearing the coveted Rolex Daytona Le Mans in white gold, one of the shortest-lived productions of any modern Rolex.

DiCaprio has appeared courtside three times since December, each time sporting a discontinued white-gold Daytona. It’s clear the Daytona has become his go-to Rolex.

The “Le Mans” Daytona ref. 126529LN on his wrist Thursday, with its reverse panda dial and red “100” marker on the bezel, has quickly become one of the most sought-after modern Rolex watches, especially following its discontinuation in white gold last year.

Mark Wahlberg Debuts Ultra-Rare Pink Rolex Daytona

Mark Wahlberg. (Credit: @markwahlberg/Instagram)

On Wednesday, Mark Wahlberg shared a 34-second clip on Instagram wearing an exceptionally rare Rolex, previously unseen in public. The watch, a pink gem-set Daytona, was released as an off-catalog piece at Watches and Wonders 2024, leaving its production numbers and price tag a mystery.

A true unicorn in the watch world, this Rolex sparked speculation about its existence, as no photos of the piece surfaced during the event. As expected, the brand provided no details on such highly limited editions.

While this isn’t the first pink Daytona from Rolex, Wahlberg’s version is entirely different from the white-gold Daytona Beach series released in 2000.

Filmed in a Paris hotel, the video captures Wahlberg descending a staircase while promoting Municipal, the clothing line he co-owns, and wearing the luxury timepiece. Featuring a pink sapphire-set bezel, diamond lugs and a pastel “Barbie” pink dial, the watch is mounted on a matching pink leather strap that complements its 18k yellow gold case.

Its appearance on Wahlberg’s wrist marks the first known sighting of this model, nearly a year after its release. At one point in the clip, Wahlberg turns to his friend, renowned New York watch enthusiast Zach Lu, and says, “Real men wear pink.”

Rolex Watches Face Potential Impact from Trade Relations

(Source: World Bank)

Switzerland is bracing for potential U.S. tariffs amid escalating global trade tensions, with the luxury watch sector — led by Rolex — closely monitoring developments.

While the country enjoys a stable trade relationship with the U.S. and remains outside the European Union’s disputes, the threat of tariffs on high-end Swiss timepieces is real.

Switzerland’s economy faces a bigger problem: its overwhelming reliance on exports. Switzerland’s export-to-GDP ratio dwarfs that of the U.S., China, Canada, Mexico and even Germany, according to a World Bank analysis. More than half of Switzerland’s outbound trade comes from pharmaceuticals, making it a prime target for Washington’s aggressive tariff policies.

For Rolex, the world’s largest luxury watchmaker, the likely strategy will be to pass any tariff-related costs directly to customers. Given its strong brand equity, Rolex may not even notice a drop in demand in the U.S. — its largest market — as demand far exceeds supply. Unlike other consumer goods, Swiss luxury watches have no direct substitute in the U.S. which may soften the blow.

Rolex Strategy in Focus with London Flagship

(Photo credit: Watches of Switzerland)

Rolex opened last week its largest European boutique on London’s Old Bond Street, a four-story, 670-square-meter flagship operated by Watches of Switzerland. Hodinkee offers a detailed look at the new boutique with excellent photos here.

The importance of the launch was underscored by the presence of Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour, who traveled to London alongside his wife, Anne-Carole Dufour, and Head of Communications Arnaud Boetsch.

Beyond its impressive scale, the new London boutique offers insight into Rolex’s broader retail strategy. Since the brand’s acquisition of Bucherer, industry observers have speculated about Rolex’s long-term intentions — whether it might shift toward a vertically integrated model, selling directly through Bucherer and limiting the role of independent retailers. After Rolex announced its acquisition of Bucherer, Watches of Switzerland Group saw its stock drop by about 27% on Aug. 25, 2023, marking its largest single-day loss.

But by partnering with Watches of Switzerland — a key competitor of Bucherer — for its largest boutique in Europe, Rolex is signaling that it sees value in maintaining a diverse retail ecosystem. This approach allows the brand to balance control over its distribution while continuing to leverage the expertise and customer relationships of long-standing retail partners. Watches of Switzerland also opened a Rolex boutique in Atlanta, Ga., last month and will open one in Plano, Tex., next week.

For independent Rolex dealers, the new London boutique provides reassurance that Rolex’s expansion strategy is not a departure from its established business model but rather an evolution, one that continues to prioritize a global network of trusted retailers.

Rolex to Open Largest European Boutique

(Photo credit: Rolex)

Rolex will open its largest European boutique on March 14, a four-story flagship on London’s Bond Street, operated by Watches of Switzerland. WatchPro was first to report the news.

The expansion is the latest sign of Rolex’s strategy to consolidate retail into larger, high-profile spaces, offering an immersive showcase of its heritage and innovations. In recent years, Rolex has closed smaller points of sale to make way for flagship stores in key markets.

This approach extends globally. In December, Rolex opened a three-story boutique on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, following similar expansions in Tokyo’s Omotesando and Ginza districts.

In New York, construction is progressing on Rolex’s new U.S. headquarters and largest flagship store, a 30-story building. According to the most recent report by Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult, Rolex has reduced its U.S. retailers from 360 to 260 since 2020, prioritizing larger, brand-dedicated boutiques in prime locations over smaller, multi-brand points of sale.

Initially delayed due to construction challenges, the Bond Street boutique is now ready for launch. Watches of Switzerland CEO Brian Duffy and Rolex UK Managing Director Richard de Leyser will host a preview on March 13, with the public opening the following day. The store marks Rolex’s most significant retail presence in Europe, reinforcing its shift toward flagship dominance.

War Reporter’s Rolex Hits Auction

Derek McKendry. (Photo courtesy: Webb’s)

The Rolex GMT-Master of a New Zealand war cameraman, who captured some of the most intense moments of the Vietnam and Cambodian conflicts, is up for sale.

While Rolex watches with provenance frequently make headlines at auction, whether from Hollywood icons, divers or astronauts, war-worn Rolex timepieces are far more unusual.

Derek McKendry built a career reporting from war zones across India, the Middle East, Southeast Asia and Africa, enduring gunfire, mortar blasts and imprisonment. His well-worn Rolex GMT-Master 1675 carries the history of a life spent on the front lines.

In a letter to his mother in Oct. 1969, McKendry described the watch as being “very sturdy and quite practical for what I want.”

“His Rolex, much like his camera, bore the scars of war — dents, scratches, and a fading bezel. But just like its owner, it kept going, never faltering under pressure,” the auction house said. The auction ends Sunday.

McKendry, the namesake of a journalism award, earned a reputation for his bravery on the frontlines while his Rolex kept ticking through the chaos. In 1979, he was nearly killed in Zambia after being arrested and accused of espionage. His colleague was shot and did not survive.