(Photo credit: Rolex)
Rolex kept things relatively quiet on the steel front this year, introducing just a few new dial colors (lavender, beige and pistachio) for its Oyster Perpetual line. Last year, the only steel release was a GMT-Master II with a black and grey bezel, a look already available in a two-tone version.
Most of the other updates focused on precious metals, including its cheapest Land-Dweller model, made in white Rolesor, Rolex’s combination of white gold and steel.
The gold focus hasn’t gone unnoticed by Coronet, prompting questions about whether it’s a strategy to move the brand upscale.
While precious-metal pieces have sold well since the post-Covid period, they could move more slowly now amid uncertainties in the global market.
The new Datejust 31 with red ombré dial. (Rolex)
Still, with each passing year, the number of precious-metal watches released by the brand has increased, while steel releases have become more rare. This begs the question whether Rolex is gradually moving further upmarket, not abandoning steel entirely, but possibly giving more attention to higher-end materials.
Rolex told Coronet it doesn’t quite see it that way. While acknowledging the strong presence of gold in this year’s releases, the brand points to the Oyster Perpetual line as an example of its ongoing commitment to steel. The company highlights its use of fresh dial colors and new finishes, especially on the OP 41. For now, at least, Rolex maintains that there’s no official shift in direction.
The new Daytona with bright green and golden dial. (Rolex)