(Photo credit: Manchester University Press)
A new book by business historian Pierre-Yves Donzé, “The Making of a Status Symbol: A Business History of Rolex,” explores how Rolex became more than a watchmaker; it became shorthand for success. Rather than focusing solely on product innovation, the brand turned its attention to storytelling, highlighting the aspirations of its consumers. This shift helped Rolex navigate industry upheavals, including the quartz crisis, which weakened many Swiss rivals focused primarily on precision.
Donzé, a professor at Osaka University, looks at more than 100 years of Rolex history to show how the brand built a global identity through smart strategy. Leaders like former CEO André Heiniger focused on reputation over product innovation, growing the brand while keeping its message tightly controlled. The result was a product positioned as “accessible luxury” — attainable, yet still exclusive — an approach that set Rolex apart from traditional luxury brands.
Originally published in French in 2024 as “La Fabrique de l’excellence,” the English edition — with minor updates — is scheduled for release on Jun. 3, 2025, and is currently available for pre-order. Readers can find my full review of Donzé’s 272-page book in this month’s Long Reads.