We’ve often mentioned how the perception of Switzerland being the sole watch powerhouse of the world has been skewed over the years. Today, we’d like to highlight some aspects of Chinese watchmaking and its history.
Watchmaking history in China really goes back to the times of the Silk Road, when European watchmakers sold pocket watches to the Chinese elite. The Swiss and British competed heavily for market share, but eventually Chinese watchmakers learned the European techniques and were able to make their own watches.
Modern watchmaking in China started in the 1950s. In 1958, the Chinese government completed construction of their first watch factory, the Tianjin Watch Factory. The origins of modern Chinese watchmaking go back to 1955 when 4 unnamed men were assigned to make the first Chinese watch, based on a Sindaco 5 jewel movement, resulting in a small collection of handmade watched called WuXing or “Five Stars”. In the late 1950s, 7 other watch factories were established: the Beijing, Guangzhou, Jilin, Liaoning, Nanjing, Quingdao, and Shanghai Watch Factories. Some of these factories originally focused on watches like the WuYi, a 17-jewel watch which was produced until 1971. Overtime the number of factories reached the hundreds and Chinese techniques improved to be able to closely copy Swiss movements like the AS 1187, the Chinese version of which was the Shanghai-made A581. The A581 was also the first mass produced Chinese watch and an important piece for vintage Chinese watch collectors. Another notable Chinese watch development was the ‘Tongji’ or Chinese Standard Movement, in production since 1972.
Today the Chinese market is known for its ever-improving domestic manufacturing operations, watches of actually quality distinct from the $500 tourbillon ads we all hate on Facebook. As the stigma against made in China watches dissipates, the Swiss will have a formidable opponent to go up against in the world of luxury watches.