From the Streets to the Wrist: The World’s First All-Black Watch
A 1970s Orfina Porsche Design Chronograph featuring the Valjoux 7750, like the one worn in Top Gun
Ferdinand Alexander Porsche was the grandson of Porsche founder, Ferdinand Porsche, and also a noted car designer. He is especially lauded for designing the Porsche 911. However, in the early 1970s, he forayed into the watch industry, marrying the automotive spirit of Porsche with his eye for design to create the Porsche Design watch line.
In the early 1970s, black watches were not a thing; gold and steel reigned supreme in the watch market. So, when Porsche Design introduced its first product, an all-black chronograph inspired by the Porsche 911 – it started the PVD trend, being the first all-black watch ever. Ferdinand’s new company, Porsche Design, partnered with Orfina to make their first timepiece. Orfina had recently been acquired by his friend, Umberto Maglioli, so it was an easy choice to make. Their watch, the Orfina Porsche Design Chronograph I, used the legendary Valjoux 7750 and also used the Lemania 5100. The Orfina Porsche Design Chronograph I (Valjoux 7750) is also the model worn in Top Gun and also by famous F1 racer, Mario Andretti. Today, the earlier Orfina Porsche Design chronograph models are difficult to find in good condition, as the early PVD of the day wore off easier.
Old Orfina Porsche Design Chronograph I ad in German
From 1978, Porsche Design worked with IWC, a partnership that is accredited with saving both Porsche Design and IWC from the Quartz Attack. That same year, they released their first product: the IWC Porsche Design Kompassuhr ref. 3510 a.k.a. the Compass Watch. The IWC Porsche Design Compass Watch was an especially peculiar creation as it combined a compass that was revealed by lifting up the first component which had the dial and the movement inside.
IWC Porsche Design Compass ref. 3510, circa 1980s / Credit: S.Song Watches
The watch was not easy to produce; the double-decker case had to be anti-magnetic for the compass to work and a special aluminum alloy was used to achieve this. The watch featured a 22 jewel, IWC Cal. 375 and had a diameter of 39 mm – along with its black PVD case. Together, the two brands also made the ref. 3551 in 1985 and the ref. 3511 in 1991, but parted ways when their agreement expired in 1997.
Then, after 20 years with IWC, Porsche Design and Eterna hooked up. They notably released the Porsche Design P’6780 (the Eterna Concept Diver). Ultimately, Porsche Design became an icon in watch design, with Ferdinand Alexander Porsche at the helm. Innovative things like applying black PVD, using integrated bracelets, and materials like carbon fiber, are still popular aspects of watch design that they started decades ago.
By: Eric Mulder