At the beginning of the last century, Patek Philippe made some very special officer watches that have stood the test of time. These are timepieces that were not only notable at the time, like in the case of the 1923 Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph Officer Watch, but that are still with us and highly revered today.
What is an ‘officer watch’? An officer’s watch is more than a watch worn by an officer in the military in the early 20th century, but more importantly a watch designed for officers, with a few features that pointed towards this. Some of the classic elements of an officer’s watch are clean white dials with bold Arabic numerals – easy to read, a round case with a hinged caseback, screwed lugs, and a large crown for easy adjustments under pressure. They also often had small seconds at 6 o’clock although, again, this was not the case with the 1923 Patek Philippe Officer’s watch.
Patek Philippe ‘Lady Officer’ ref. 4860 / Credit: Phillips
Two of the most famous examples of officer’s watches, known for their recent public sales, are the aforementioned 1923 Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph Officer’s Watch no. 124.824 sold by Sotheby’s and the 1919 18k gold Patek Philippe Officer’s Watch sold by Christie’s. The first is notable for being the first known split-seconds chronograph wristwatch, with a movement that was so innovative at the time it, that it was reintroduced in 2005 for its contemporary cousin the Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph ref. 5959. The latter, no. 192.165, is less remarkable but still an excellent example of a Patek Philippe Officer Watch made in 1919.
More recently, Patek Philippe introduced some new officer watches. In 1989, to commemorate its 150th anniversary, Patek Philippe released the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 3960 and later also the ref. 5053. These both featured the classic characteristics of an officer’s watch mentioned previously and are likely the best examples of these homages. There was also a ‘Lady Officer’ ref. 4860 made in the 1990s by Patek Philippe.
Ultimately, while not a formal series like the Calatrava or Gondolo, the officer’s watches represent not only an important historical event – as these largely emerged during and after the First World War – but also worthy and significant steps taken in watch design in the early 20th century. Taken up again by Patek Philippe more recently.
By: Andres Ibarguen
Read more:
“PATEK PHILIPPE'S FIRST SPLIT-SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH WRISTWATCH, NO 124824.” Sotheby’s, https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2014/important-watches-n09159/lot.175.html.
“PATEK PHILIPPE. A FINE 18K GOLD OFFICER STYLE WRISTWATCH WITH ENAMEL DIAL.” Christie’s https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4814223.
Foskett, Stephen. “Could an Officer’s Watch Be the Ultimate Patek Philippe Calatrava?” Grail Watch, https://grail-watch.com/2016/02/03/officers-watch-ultimate-patek-philippe-calatrava/.