In a Year of Tariffs and Rising Gold, Rolex Holds Firm on Prices

Average US retail price increase percentage by brand in 3Q25 and YoY. (WatchCharts/Morgan Stanley)

Several major Swiss watch brands have raised U.S. retail prices in response to the 39% tariffs introduced in August, but Rolex has not. According to recent data from WatchCharts, Patek Philippe increased prices by about 15% on average, and Cartier and Omega by 8%, when comparing prices between July and now.

While Rolex’s average prices are up nearly 9% year over year, the brand has left them untouched since President Trump took office, a sign of its long-term approach as the Swiss industry navigates export costs and a rising gold market.

Gold prices have climbed more than 50% since the start of the year, their strongest run since 1979, adding pressure to production costs for precious-metal models across Rolex’s catalog. To make matters worse, the Swiss franc has strengthened against the U.S. dollar by double digits over the same period, further increasing the cost of exporting to the American market.

Next month, the U.S. Supreme Court will hold oral arguments on whether Trump’s tariffs are legal, possibly leading to a ruling before the end of the year. The U.S. Trade Court and a federal appeals court have already found most of the tariffs unlawful. If luxury brands overshoot on pricing, their image of exclusivity may suffer if they’re later forced to adjust prices downward.

In that respect, Rolex is choosing to wait, at least until Jan. 1, when the brand typically resets its global price lists for the new year and a price increase now appears all but inevitable.

Riding Record Revenues, Rolex Plans to Rebuild Its German Home

Rolex Germany headquarters in Cologne, in an undated photo. “ROLEX” lettering has been removed. (Photo credit: Raimond Spekking)

In the latest sign that record revenues and strong demand are prompting the brand to upgrade its property, Rolex Deutschland GmbH, the wholly owned subsidiary responsible for distributing Rolex products across Germany, plans to demolish and rebuild its headquarters in Cologne. The Rolex lettering on the building dating back to the 1970s has already been removed, and BB Bank, which occupies the ground floor, told customers last month it will relocate between April and May 2026 because of the renovation.

In a meeting with Cologne’s design advisory board, Rolex said its headquarters, with ceilings just 2.65 meters high, is too outdated and falls short on modern safety, soundproofing and accessibility standards. A presentation to the board, which includes architects and local officials, showed plans for a brighter building with a larger glass façade and a more open ground-floor colonnade replacing the current walkway.

The project’s proximity to the 17th-century listed Church of St. Mary’s Assumption has prompted talks with church and heritage officials. Rolex has filed a preliminary permit and will temporarily move about 150 employees and its training center to Deutz, a Cologne district across the Rhine.

Coronet reported that Rolex is also building a flagship boutique in Düsseldorf, set to open in 2027 under the management of Bucherer. The Rolex USA headquarters is being rebuilt in Manhattan. In Bulle, Switzerland, Rolex is adding a 1-billion-franc manufacture.

Rolex May Soon Have to Reveal Its French Figures

Rolex’s Champs Elysées boutique. (Photo: Coronet)

For the first time, Rolex may be forced to lift the veil on operations in France, one of its largest markets. A ruling by the Cour d'appel could soon make public portions of the brand’s confidential business records, including sales volumes and watch availability data, from its subsidiary. The figures, submitted as part of the company’s defense in an antitrust case, may surface in the final judgment expected in late 2025 or early 2026, offering a rare glimpse into the inner operations of Rolex France S.A.S.

The 19-page decision, issued ealier this year, rejected Rolex’s attempt to keep all data under France’s secret des affaires law. The appellate judges accepted that past five-year figures remain sensitive but ruled older data no longer qualify as secret, citing a European Court of Justice precedent establishing a five-year limit. Rolex must now file unredacted information with the court and opposing party, retailer Pellegrin & Fils.

Pellegrin & Fils, founded in 1840 and based in southern France, lost its Rolex dealership and went on to file the lawsuit that would eventually lead to the brand being fined €91.6 million last year by l'Autorité de la concurrence for banning online watch sales. Rolex appealed, arguing that its selective network protects the brand’s integrity and customer experience. Still, in defending that principle, Rolex has inadvertently invited a look inside its own books.

What Rolex Can Learn From LVMH Heir Antoine Arnault

Antoine Arnault. (Photo: Instagram / @niccoloy / @young.brando)

Antoine Arnault, the eldest son of one of the richest men in the world and the chief executive of Dior, attended on Tuesday the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2026 show at the Louvre wearing a vintage Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 1665 “Great White” with a Tiffany & Co.-signed dial. The rare model was first spotted by watch writer Nick Gould.

Arnault wore the same piece a few days earlier while standing on the sidelines of Paris FC, the football team his family owns. While it would be easy to give Rolex points for the fact the 48-year-old LVMH scion was wearing the brand, Coronet feels the choice reveals something worth writing about.

By contrast, Rolex’s most visible ambassador Roger Federer appeared in Zürich almost the same day wearing a Daytona Le Mans in Everose gold during a video shoot for Complex with Burna Boy. Just a week earlier at the Laver Cup, he drew headlines for wearing an off-catalog Daytona set with blue sapphires and diamonds, a watch whose market value exceeds a million dollars.

Rolex’s strategy has been to turn its iconic references into more opulent versions of the originals. The word used in Geneva is “décliner.” As the brand leans further into flashier designs and vintage Rolex prices continue to climb, the worlds of new and old money intersect, revealing the two faces of Rolex.

And while those reaching for the crown prefer the glitz, those who are already wearing it, like Arnault, look for something else: the understated, the restraint, the rare only time can make.

Rolex Will Likely Buy This Piece Next

(Photo credit: Sotheby’s)

Twenty-five years ago, when a descendant of British swimmer Mercedes Gleitze auctioned her 1927 Oyster watch, Rolex showed no interest in buying it. Frankly, not many others did either. The watch of Rolex’s first brand ambassador barely topped £17,000.

That could change in November, when the same watch returns to Sotheby’s as Rolex is quietly amassing a collection suited for a museum. (When Coronet asked a Rolex rep in Geneva about plans to build one, she said, “We do not comment on potential future projects.”)

Rolex’s philosophy on heritage has changed recently, with the brand often emerging as the highest bidder for historically significant watches, pieces worn by Presidents, NASA astronauts — a famous Pan Am captain whose watch was tracked down by Coronet. While Rolex never confirms such acquisitions, they have surfaced at exhibitions highlighting the brand’s history.

On Nov. 9, at Sotheby’s in Geneva, Gleitze’s Oyster is expected to reach $1.2 million, or £900,000, a 5,180% return for its first buyer, a sign that provenance continues to drive results at auction.

“[Gleitze] became Hans Wilsdorf's first brand Testimonee, forging a path followed by hundreds of distinguished sportswomen and men, explorers and artists,” Rolex said. It is hard to imagine the brand not participating in the auction.

With Zendaya, Rolex Signals Shift Toward Actors

(Photo credit: Rolex.com)

Rolex named Zendaya as its newest Testimonee on Thursday, making her the only actress on the company’s roster. The move follows the appointment of Leonardo DiCaprio just seven months ago, who until today was the brand’s only actor. It marks a departure for a company that has historically aligned itself with athletes, musicians, explorers and even directors.

The brand introduced Zendaya with a one-minute montage set to Ennio Morricone’s “L’estasi dell’oro,” the same clip it used to introduce DiCaprio but with minor changes. The clip closes with her image before showing a 36mm Land-Dweller in Everose gold with diamond-set bezel. The 29-year-old actress is also engaged to actor Tom Holland, who is often spotted wearing Rolex pieces.

By adding Zendaya as its newest Testimonee, only its second movie star on a roster that includes no fewer than 30 tennis players and 58 golfers, Rolex is acknowledging the power of Hollywood to extend the brand’s reach beyond sport and music.

In Britain, a Rare Glimpse Into Rolex’s Business

(Photo credit: Hodinkee)

Rolex S.A. does not publish financial results, making it difficult to gauge the brand’s overall performance. But U.K. disclosure rules, which require even Rolex to file annual accounts, offer a rare glimpse into the brand’s operations in the world’s sixth-largest economy.

On Wednesday, The Rolex Watch Company Limited, the U.K. arm of Rolex S.A., filed its report with Companies House. Rolex’s British branch employs around 200 people and is responsible for distributing Rolex products to authorized dealers in the U.K. and Ireland.

“The directors believe the group is well placed to manage its business risks successfully despite the current uncertain economic outlook, in particular with the ongoing war in Ukraine and inflationary pressures,” the report from Rolex’s U.K. branch said.

While revenue rose just 2% to £701.5 million in 2024, when compared to 2023, profit before tax jumped a staggering 47% to £96.3 million, helped by the first full year of rental income from Rolex’s newly acquired London properties.

Those three properties, purchased at the end of 2023, contributed £21.4 million in profit during their first full year. The company also bought another one in late 2024 for £6.8 million. That property has already gained more than £10 million in value, according to the statement, the latest sign of real estate’s key role in Rolex’s business.

Rolex’s Website Now Showcases a New Book on the Datejust

(From Rolex.com)

Rolex on Monday released its second authorized volume, this one dedicated to the Datejust. Priced at £100 and available in English and French, the book traces the influence of a watch introduced by Rolex eight decades ago.

Titled “Oyster Perpetual Datejust: A Watch that Made History” and written by Nicholas Foulkes, who drew on Rolex’s archives, the book chronicles the cultural importance of the model, which he calls “the ultimate chameleon, adapting effortlessly to every era since its launch in 1945.” In contrast to the Submariner book, this edition offers no production data, only a catalog of references.

The new volume is now being actively promoted by Rolex itself. In a move that mirrors its campaign for the Submariner book, the brand is advertising the new publication directly on its official website. The visibility suggests Rolex considers these books not as side projects, but as an integral part of its storytelling.

Rolex Reshapes H.R. as It Prepares for Biggest Hiring Push

(Photo credit: Rolex)

Delphine Desponds, who served as Deputy Director of Human Resources at Rolex headquarters, has departed the Geneva watchmaker after just nine years with the company, the latest sign that Rolex is reshaping its HR leadership. Her exit follows that of Carole Decosterd, the longtime head of human resources, who has stepped down recently after nearly three decades at the brand.

The exits come as Rolex prepares for one of Rolex's biggest workforce expansions. Its new manufacture, in Bulle, will require hiring 2,000 new employees, a 20% increase in staff. Desponds, who joined Rolex in 2016 from Baume & Mercier, where she was Human Resources Director, played a key role in preparing for this growth and ensuring HR systems could support an operation that already spans more than 150 métiers, from watchmaking and manufacturing to engineering, design, quality, logistics and IT.

It’s unclear how the new leadership team will reshape the brand, as human resources appears to be more than recruitment and employee relations at Rolex. The company is famous for its culture of discretion and excellence first instilled by Hans Wilsdorf. The new team will soon face a critical test in expanding the Rolex workforce without compromising quality.

Rolex’s Flagship Expansion Reaches More Cities

Future site of Rolex’s flagship boutique in Düsseldorf. (Photo credit: Anne Orthen)

Rolex confirmed plans to open a two-floor boutique on Düsseldorf’s Königsallee in 2027, the city’s most prestigious luxury shopping street. Though Düsseldorf has just 600,000 residents, it is the latest example of Rolex concentrating its presence into bigger but fewer locations, even in mid-size German markets. The new boutique will be managed by Bucherer.

From Rodeo Drive to Bond Street to the Ginza district — and now Königsallee — Rolex is consolidating retail into larger, high-profile flagship stores that function almost as temples to the brand. Unlike traditional retailers, these boutiques go beyond displaying timepieces; they immerse visitors in Rolex’s storytelling, showcasing its heritage, innovations and expertise. In recent years, the company has closed smaller points of sale to make way for these multi-level flagships in key markets.

In Germany, Rolex is closing up to 40 locations, according to some reports, including in Düsseldorf, where the new flagship boutique is planned. Juwelier Rüschenbeck, a large German jeweler with additional stores in Frankfurt and Cologne, is unfortunately located near Rolex's future site and will lose its agreement next year, a fact the brand confirmed. “The partnership will end by mutual agreement on December 31, 2026,” a Rolex spokesperson said.

In Letter to Senator, Rolex Says No Tariff Talks With Trump

(From: X.com/@SenWarren)

U.S. Senator Elizabeth Warren on Friday released Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour’s response to her inquiry. The letter, dated Sept. 25, offers for the first time a glimpse into Dufour’s meeting with President Donald J. Trump.

In the two-page response, Dufour wrote that while Rolex was under no obligation to answer congressional inquiries of this nature, it chose to do so as a matter of transparency and courtesy.

Dufour said Rolex, a longtime sponsor of the US Open, extends such invitations in the spirit of sportsmanship and international friendship, irrespective of political lines. He also rejected speculation that Rolex sought to curry favor, noting that no “substantive discussions” were held regarding “tariffs, trade policy, or any other official matter,” which he said are handled solely by Swiss authorities.

"Rolex is not, nor has it ever been, engaged in any negotiation with the U.S. government regarding tariffs. Such matters fall exclusively within the purview of the Swiss authorities and their American counterparts," Dufour wrote. "Rolex's experience of the recently enacted tariffs is identical to that of any other Swiss manufacturer that is not exempted. As a company, we naturally hope, along with our fellow Swiss exporters, for a resolution that is reasonable and fair."

More Coronet coverage:

U.S. Senator Presses Rolex CEO Over Trump Invitation
At Trump Meeting, Rolex Had More than Its Watches at Stake
Rolex’s Meeting With Trump Still Shrouded in Silence
Acting Alone, Dufour Risked Rolex’s Image in a Bid for Access

Why Extra Color Dials Could Be Rolex’s Off-Season Play

(Watch photo credit: Rolex)

Rolex traditionally unveils new models in the spring, but “off-season” releases are not without precedent. The Deepsea Challenge in titanium appeared in Nov. 2022. Last year, the brand announced a new Day-Date during the Oscars, only months after introducing a special violin-dial edition on New Year’s Day.

Off-season releases tend to reignite discussion around Rolex, particularly as other brands have become willing to spread out launches beyond Watches and Wonders.

Coronet believes the Oyster Perpetual could be a good candidate this fall. It is an entry-level model with outsized demand that often trades above retail depending on the dial color. Adding two dial colors before the holidays would raise the collection’s visibility and give retailers a timely update in their busiest quarter. Yet, it would not alter Rolex’s overall strategy of restraint during the “off-season.”

The Oyster Perpetual lineup tells an interesting story. The 31mm and 36mm versions each offer nine color options, while the 41mm has only six. (Even the 28mm version offers more color options than the 41mm.) Extending existing shades to Rolex’s largest OP would cost the brand little but could reignite discussion and expand choice in its most popular size.

The trade-off is that more dial variations mean less availability for each one. Because all 41mm Oyster Perpetuals share the same case and movement, new dials would not increase output but only shift the mix. That could make existing shades such as pistachio or beige harder to obtain, driving secondary-market prices even higher.

In Rare Appearance, Rolex CEO to Speak at Dubai Watch Week

Abdul Hamied Seddiqi, center left, with Jean-Frédéric Dufour. (Photo: Instagram/@seddiqi_uae)

Dubai Watch Week announced Wednesday it will return for its seventh edition at a new and expanded venue in Dubai Mall, Burj Park. This year’s edition stands out for the rare public appearance of Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour at the event.

Dubai Watch Week is held every two years in mid-November and organized by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. It’s the only fair outside Watches and Wonders where Rolex stages an exhibition.

Dufour will open the program in conversation with Abdul Hamied Seddiqi, chairman of Seddiqi Holding. They will discuss the importance of mechanical watchmaking, as a human art, in an age of AI, technology and uniformity. The keynote is titled “The Time to Act Is Now — A Note to the Watch Industry.”

Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is the Middle East's largest luxury watch retailer and was the first in the UAE to represent Rolex in 1952.

Whether Dufour will comment on his meeting with President Donald J. Trump at the US Open last month remains to be seen. Dufour’s last interview was in April 2024.

The discussion will be live-streamed on Dubai Watch Week’s page on Nov. 19 at 12:00pm.

U.S. Senator Presses Rolex CEO Over Trump Invitation

(From warren.senate.gov)

More than two weeks after Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour appeared alongside President Donald J. Trump at the US Open, no details have emerged on what was discussed between the two leaders. That may soon change.

U.S. Senator Elizabeth Warren is pressing Rolex for answers about whether the encounter was tied to efforts to ease the new 39-percent tariff on Swiss watches.

In a letter to Dufour sent Wednesday, Warren demanded clarity by Oct. 8 on why Trump was invited to the US Open, what communications took place with his administration before, during and after the event, how much Rolex expects to pay if no exemption is granted and how that would impact profits.

“Given the President’s record of doling out special treatment to CEOs who are able to woo him with flattery, payoffs, or both, the timing of his attendance at the match in the Rolex box is concerning,” the Senator wrote. “I have questions about whether you are attempting to curry favor with the President in an effort to secure special-interest exemptions for Rolex products.”

The meeting was unusual for Rolex, whose reputation depends on staying above politics. Yet Dufour managed to get closer to Trump than the Swiss delegations had in weeks.

Rolex Seeks Control of Collector Nickname ‘Padellone’

(Photo credit: Hodinkee)

Rolex filed an application to trademark the word “Padellone” on Monday, marking a rare step to seize ownership of a nickname that until now lived exclusively among collectors.

The Italian name for “large frying pan” belongs to the reference 8171, a triple-calendar moonphase produced briefly in the early 1950s. With its oversized 38-millimeter case and broad dial, the watch looked nothing like its contemporaries and quickly earned its nickname among Rolex collectors. Only a few hundred were made, and surviving examples have become grail pieces, routinely crossing the million-dollar mark at auction.

(Swissreg.ch)

Rolex’s decision to trademark “Padellone” is unclear, but it may serve as a defensive move, ensuring that third parties, including other watchmakers, can’t use the name for commercial gain. It may also reflect a desire for Rolex to shape and monetize its own legacy in the years ahead.

Rolex Tests Chinese TikTok to Reach Younger Buyers

(Screenshot: Douyin.com)

Rolex has become active on Douyin since last week, the Chinese version of TikTok, created by the same company, ByteDance. The app, only available for download in China, is dominated by younger users, with roughly 65 to 70 percent under the age of 35, according to GMA, a marketing agency based in Shanghai. (Rolex also has an account on TikTok but has yet to publish there.)

Rolex posted its first short clip on Douyin on Sept. 15 from Shanghai and has published 19 since, signaling it is ready to engage the next generation of luxury buyers in one of its most important markets. Douyin is now the third social media platform Rolex uses in China.

Until now, Rolex’s digital presence in China has relied mostly on Weibo and WeChat. Weibo, similar to Twitter, is used for broad announcements, while WeChat, China’s all-in-one app, combines messaging, payments and services, making it valuable for direct customer contact. Rolex’s move to Douyin is the latest sign it is ready to embrace short, fast-moving videos to communicate directly with China’s next generation of consumers.

The New Oyster Perpetual That Is Worth Double

Almost six months after Watches and Wonders, Rolex’s 2025 collection seems to have been well received, with new models trading at a premium on the secondary market.

This year, the brand had kept things subdued on the steel front, adding only a few dial colors to the Oyster Perpetual line.

Still, the new colors are a success, trading at a sizable premium on the preowned market, with the pistachio fetching twice retail.

Chrono24’s lowest listed prices for that reference in the U.S. (Screenshot: Chrono24.com)

The bigger story is the Land-Dweller, the newest collection, which was received by Rolex fans with both fascination and hesitation. Yet the model has quickly found strong acceptance: it now trades at more than $40,000, triple its retail price. Roger Federer, Leonardo DiCaprio and Tom Cruise all have worn the watch in public.

The $37,400 yellow gold Daytona with a turquoise dial is currently trading at $120,000 in the U.S. Even the new 1908 with the Settimo gold bracelet is trading at a $10,000 premium.

For a company producing more than 1.2 million watches annually, sustaining this level of demand is no small feat. Rolex continues to do so despite wars in Europe and the Middle East, a strong franc, rising gold, slowing growth in China and weakening consumer sentiment. And credit must be given where it belongs. Render unto Rolex what is Rolex’s.