For the First Time, Rolex Hints at Production Numbers in New Book

Oyster Perpetual Submariner: The Watch that Unlocked the Deep (Foulkes, 2024)

Rolex, unlike many other watch manufacturers in the luxury segment, does not publish any figures on production.

But in the first Rolex-authorized book about the history of the Submariner watch, the author is including the exact production number of each Rolex Submariner, Sea-Dweller and Deepsea variant. The book will be made available for international purchase starting on Oct. 1st at ACC Art Books and at major retailers in the U.S. on Oct. 28.

With 646,613 examples, the 16610 takes the crown as the most produced Submariner followed not by the no-date variant, but by the 116610LN, at 414,905. The least produced Submariner was the 116649EMBR, an 18-ct white-gold version with an emerald and diamond-set bezel, at 51 examples.

The 116610LV “Hulk” was produced almost twice as much as the 16610LV “Kermit,” 228,710 and 128,835, respectively.

Another interesting data is how much more popular the Submariner with a date complication is, likely a reason lovers of the brand have renamed the Submariner Date simply “Submariner.”

When comparing steel versions only, the date reference 16610 was produced almost three times more than its no-date counterpart, the 14060 (combined with 14060M production numbers). About the same production ratio is found when comparing the 114060 to the 116610LN, 153,437 and 414,905, respectively.

Rolex said this book “is the first in a series of titles exploring the brand’s unique watches.” Subsequent titles could tell us more about production data, including for the Daytona and the GMT-Master.

Federer Gifts Tennis Pals Borg, McEnroe GMTs

(Photo credit: GQ Sports)

Roger Federer gifted John McEnroe and Björn Borg Rolex GMT-Master II watches in their final Laver Cup as captains.

Since the first edition in 2017, Borg and McEnroe have led Team Europe and Team World, respectively, rekindling their intense rivalry from their tennis careers, when they faced each other 14 times between 1978 and 1981.

Federer, the driving force behind the Laver Cup, picked a Rolex model matching the team color, McEnroe scoring a Pepsi while Borg receiving a Batman, each engraved with the message “Laver Cup, Team (Europe/World) Captain, 2017 - 2024.”

In 2025, Andre Agassi will lead Team World, while Frenchman Yannick Noah will lead Team Europe.

Strong Franc Challenges Swiss Watch Industry

Cost of Swiss franc in US dollar. (Data: Yahoo Finance)

The Swiss watch industry is facing new headwinds as the Swiss franc trades at record levels.

Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour had predicted a “challenging year” for the industry, “a phase in which all manufacturers were doing well is coming to an end,” he said in April at the opening of Watches and Wonders.

The most recent figures published by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry underscored the severity of a China-led slowdown that’s rippling across the industry. Exports to the country, the second-biggest market behind the U.S., slumped almost 6% YoY while shipments to Hong Kong slid 11%, as a downturn in real estate values weighed on sentiment.

Now, with the Swiss franc trading close to $1.20, the watch industry and La Convention patronale — a trade union representing watchmakers, including at Rolex — warned this week of a significant drop in demand that’s hurting Swiss watch brands and putting jobs at risk. They called on the Swiss National Bank to take steps to weaken the strong franc, which has pressured the industry.

While no layoffs have been reported at Rolex, other major brands are using the government supported “short-time” work program to furlough employees, including at Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin, for example, which have put about 15% of workers on furlough, the company’s chief executive officer told Bloomberg News last month.

Rolex’s New Patent: Blockchain-Based Authentication

In a patent released last month by Rolex, the brand said it wants to improve on how Omega and other watch brands use NFC chips in warranty cards to access information about the watch.

Rolex said it doesn't want owners to download third party apps or create user accounts which could be susceptible to security breaches.

Rolex wants to use blockchain technology to store information that can be displayed on a website once a watch certificate card is scanned. It’s unclear if the final product will reveal personal information about ownership. But it could be a way for current owners to communicate with Rolex Service Center for warranty work, according to the patent.

More importantly, future Rolex watches could have unique identifiers for the case, movement and bracelet each. The “string of alphanumeric characters comprising of eight random digits” for each part of the watch could be stored via blockchain technology and engraved in a way that can be scanned, the patent said.

Rolex to Release First Official Book on Submariner

Rolex is preparing to release its first official book on the history of the Submariner. The 252-page book available Sept. 16 in French and English will be the first in a series about its legendary watches, the brand said.

Written by London-based historian Nicholas Foulkes, Oyster Perpetual Submariner: The Watch that Unlocked the Deep takes a look at the Submariner from its inception through the present day — and how as an archetype of the divers’ watch, it unlocked the deep as it accompanied the development of underwater exploration.

“The new and original photography, alongside historic photos from Rolex, illustrates accounts from renowned witnesses to the timepiece’s illustrious 71-year history,” Rolex said.

To learn more about the Submariner book, please read Coronet's multiple-article coverage.

Rolex Foundation Could Save Swiss Newspaper Amid Layoffs

(Photo credit: Tamedia)

The Tribune de Genève, Geneva’s largest daily newsprint, could soon be financed by the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation.

The news industry was hit hard last week when Tamedia, a Swiss media group and owner of the Tribune de Genève among several titles, announced it would close two printing plants and lay off 290 people as it plans to focus on four other titles in its portfolio.

The layoffs are likely to be the death knell for the Tribune de Genève, founded in 1879. But some in Geneva say the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation could be stepping in, as it did with two other Geneva publications, as previously reported by Coronet.

The foundation, financed completely through Rolex sales, has a media component named Aventinus whose purpose is to “support ... mainly in Geneva ... the existence of an autonomous, diversified and quality press ... for the proper circulation of information and the functioning of democracy,” according to Aventinus’ website.

A luxury company financing a news publication is not unique as the luxury industry tends to be highly protective of its image. LVMH in 2007 bought Les Echos, France's largest business newspaper.

Exclusive Rolex Daytona Seen in the Wild for the First Time

(Photo credit: @RogerFederer/Instagram)

The Rolex Daytona 100th Anniversary of Le Mans in yellow gold made its public debut on the wrist of brand ambassador extraordinaire Roger Federer Tuesday, when the retired tennis legend attended the quarter finals of the US Open in New York.

This watch, first released in 2023 in white gold then re-launched in yellow gold 10 months later, is extremely rare, not only for its availability but design. Unlike the white-gold Le Mans, the yellow-gold version is off-catalog and not advertised by the Crown.

Rolex tends to eschew anniversaries and even more vintage aesthetics. In the Daytona Le Mans, however, the sub-registers have the square pointers made famous by the exotic dial of the “Paul Newman” Daytona.

Federer rocked the GMT-Master II Batman at Roland Garros and the Wimbledon-dial Datejust at, well, Wimbledon. The yellow-gold Le Mans ref. 126528LN has been a ghost, except briefly on the wrist of Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour during a RTS news segment at this year’s Watches and Wonders.

Rolex Exited F1 Amid Contract Dispute Over Term Length

(Photo credit: Rolex)

After 11 years as a Global Partner and the Official Timepiece of Formula One, Rolex will give way to LVMH at the beginning of next season, in 2025. The news first broke on Coronet in early July.

At the time, Rolex did not say why it was walking away from a sport whose audience had doubled in the past decade, reaching 1.5 billion viewers in 2023, the fourth most watched sport worldwide.

But Coronet is now reporting Rolex did not want to renew the contract because of a dispute over the contract’s duration. While F1 wanted Rolex to sign for ten years, Rolex did not want to commit beyond five years, according to sources.

F1’s carbon footprint has continued to garner attention, a reason Rolex could have requested shorter terms. Each year, 10 teams and thousands of workers travel around the world to compete in 24 races in the name of entertainment, a carbon footprint estimated at 223,031 tCO2e per season, 49% of that coming from travel logistics alone, according to F1’s most recent report.

Watches & Wonders 2025: Smaller Brands to Move Behind Rolex

The Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation has just sent a new contract to its exhibitors, according to sources in Geneva, including a new four-installment payment plan due before the fair in April 2025.

Among the other changes in the contract is the new location for exhibitors at the Carré des Horlogers and La Place. This is affecting some 28 smaller, independent brands, which will be relegated behind the Rolex booth.

Until now, the Carré des Horlogers and La Place were centrally located at the fair, essentially splitting Watches and Wonders in two: The incumbent of the fair formerly known as SIHH, the Richemont group on one side; on the other, Rolex and Patek Philippe.

The loss of visibility and access is not insignificant and seems like a downgrade for those smaller brands. But Rolex said it won’t be blocking the visibility to the area. It’s unclear what brand will take the spot at the Carré des Horlogers and La Place though some in Geneva are speculating it could be Bulgari.

When a Rolex Brand Ambassador Gets Robbed of His Watch

(Photo credit: Rolex)

Sir Ben Ainslie, the British Olympic yachtsman and a Rolex brand ambassador, has been robbed of his watch at knifepoint in Barcelona.

The yachtsman, who is in the city to lead the U.K.’s Ineos Britannia team in the America’s Cup, reported the theft to local police in Barcelona on Monday. The Telegraph was first to report the news.

Coincidently, Rolex released on Monday a new video featuring Ainslie. But the video is about the 34th edition of the Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup, not the America's Cup.

“Like in all big cities, you can be affected by opportunistic crime and my situation is no different,” Ainslie told The Telegraph.

Ainslie was cornered by a gang and robbed of the Rolex watch reportedly worth €20,000 ($22,250) on Saturday, Spanish police said. In light of the mugging, the police said they will bolster security at the America’s Cup, which began on Aug 22.

The police did not reveal the exact Rolex model. On its website, Rolex says Ainslie wears a Yacht-Master 42 in 18 kt white gold.

Bitcoin Stabilizes at Record Level. Rolex Is Still Dropping

Bitcoin prices. (Data: Yahoo Finance)

The last time the cryptocurrency rallied, in 2021, it presaged a bubble in Rolex preowned prices, as many “crypto bros” diversified their portfolios by buying and flipping Rolex watches.

While Bitcoin in the past six months has reached and stabilized at levels higher than its 2022 record, the drop in the preowned watch market has not reversed.

“We have now experienced a nine-consecutive-quarter decline,” said Hamza Masood of WatchCharts.com on the Openwork podcast of Aug. 19. WatchCharts.com tracks watch value on the preowned market, including the top 30 models within Rolex. “We have not hit an inflexion point where we can confidently say prices are no longer falling. We are not near that bottom yet,” Masood said.

That Rolex preowned prices haven't reversed trends despite Bitcoin’s recovery is good news for enthusiasts of the brand; they no longer have to compete with speculators to get their hands on Rolex watches. “Bitcoin bros,” once bitten twice shy, seem to have slipped away from the Rolex market.

Still, Rolex enthusiasts are keeping a close eye on which models retain their value and are reluctant to splash out on a watch that is dropping in price secondhand, further depressing demand.

The New Face of Rolex Is Barely 18

(Photo credit: João Fonseca/Instagram)

Brazilian tennis player João Fonseca, who turned 18 last week, received a nice gift — a white-dial Daytona but also a Rolex contract.

Rolex is signing more and more Testimonees while they’re young and before their first big win, as reported by Coronet.

The 18-year-old tennis pro is ranked 162nd in the world and didn't advance past the qualifiers at the U.S. Open last week.

Rolex could be playing the odds or have a knack for spotting talents early in their careers. The current No. 1 ATP and WTA ranked tennis players, Jannik Sinner and Iga Świątek, respectively, were signed by Rolex while in their teens.

But Rolex’s biggest ace could also be its director of communication and image, Arnaud Boetsch, as he is a former tennis pro himself.

Boetsch has been at Rolex for more than 20 years and, in 2006, convinced a young Roger Federer to quit his sponsorship with Maurice Lacroix and join Rolex.

Et Tu, Pink Chrono?

(Source: Chrono24)

Watch lovers seem to agree Tudor watches pack incredible value. But the brand owned by Rolex seems to always meet the same fate on the secondary market, a stark contrast from Rolex watches. Every single Tudor model inexplicably trades below retail, except for one: the Black Bay Chrono Pink.

Still, the Chrono Pink’s price trajectory on the preowned market is giving us pause. Despite the model’s perceived scarcity — and the brand’s guarantee only a few will be produced — there are currently more than 50 Black Bay Chrono Pink for sale on Chrono24, putting further pressure on the market.

Tudor, these past few years, has been drawing design cues from Rolex’s hard-to-get watches, as if the Crown tried to keep frustrating clients inside the World of Rolex and away from homage brands. The Tudor Chrono Pink coincides with a rumored off-catalog pink Daytona.

When asked, a Rolex representative in Geneva agreed Rolex and Tudor seemed to be coordinating their releases though she stopped short of confirming it. “We have the same CEO, so I imagine there has to be some small coordination,” she said.

At Sponsored Event, Rolex Awards a 1908 for the First Time

(Photo credit: Craft and Tailored)

Rolex on Sunday awarded for the first time a Perpetual 1908. The prize was for the winner of the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance, a classic car show with some of the rarest and most valuable vehicles ever made.

It was also the first time a European won the yearly competition taking place at Pebble Beach, Calif. Cameron Barr reported the 1908 on Instagram.

The Concours d'Elegance, which celebrates a “glorious step back in time,” according to Rolex, is unlike any automobile competition presented by the brand. The 1908 in yellow gold retailing for $23,000 as prize for Best in Show is a record for Rolex.

The 1908 was presented to winner Fritz Burkard of Zug, Switzerland, whose storied 1934 Bugatti Type 59 Sports was among 214 cars from 16 countries and 29 states to compete.

In past years, a two-tone Datejust on Jubilee was awarded to the Pebble Beach winner. The switch to the 1908 is likely helping Rolex put a spotlight on the new Classic line it launched in 2023.

Rolex Readies Release of New U.S. Open Video

(Photo credit: Rolex)

Rolex is getting ready to drop a new video before the final Grand Slam of the year, the U.S. Open, which begins on Aug. 26. The flagship watch for the tennis tournament will be the steel Datejust, blue dial, a change from the two-tone Datejust, champagne dial, of past years.

The 30-second Rolex video will be released on the brand’s social media channels and is currently unlisted on YouTube.

“Feel the energy, feel it in the air,” says the voice-over in the clip’s opening. That’s because the New York tournament with its ultra-charged atmosphere stands in contrast with another Rolex event last month: the hushed experience at Wimbledon.

Still, the tournament has done well for the brand's Testimonees, including last year's winner Coco Gauff, who is featured in the video lifting the trophy in her maiden U.S. Open title, sporting the Oyster Perpetual, grape dial, now discontinued.

The Oyster Perpetual is Coco's favorite Rolex line, the tennis player has said during an interview with the brand: “It was my first Rolex. It is elegant yet casual so I feel like I can wear it every day.”

In Bizarre Arrest, Woman Hid Stolen Rolexes Inside Vagina

(Images: Policía Nacional)

A Rolex watch has been to space, on Mount Everest and in the ocean's greatest depths. Now, it has also “explored” the most intimate part of a female body.

Multiple reports from Spain this week, including from a TV channel, say a woman was arrested at Madrid Airport when she was trying to flee to Italy with three Rolexes inside her vagina. She was part of a larger gang from Naples which smuggles stolen watches from tourist spots.

Stories on luxury-watch thefts in Europe are not new. But it's rare to learn how they’re smuggled across borders using human “mules,” similar to drug trafficking.

The watches recovered were a Day-Date, a Sky-Dweller and a Daytona, all in precious metals, according to the Policía Nacional.

The joint operation between the Spanish National Police, the Civil Guard and the Italian police tracked the woman on social media, where they found several images of her she posted at the beach. In one of them, she wrote: “Delicate but powerful.”

A King Wears the Crown... On a NATO

King Frederik X of Denmark. (Photo credit: Kongehuset)

Heavy lies the crown: Summer break is ending in Denmark, and King Frederik X is back at work after attending the Olympics in Paris.

On Monday, His Majesty held a public audience at Christiansborg Castle in Copenhagen. In this picture posted on the royal Instagram account, he glances at the list of today's audience seekers totaling 44 Danes, we’ve been told.

A monarch rocking a Rolex is not unusual. But King Frederik is wearing his Sky-Dweller on a NATO strap, dressing down the 42mm watch from Rolex’s Classic line while giving it a military look. Jason Heaton, an American author and podcaster, was first to point to His Majesty’s wrist wear of choice.

The Sky-Dweller features a GMT disc, a complication King Frederik seems to favor; he sported an all-black Omega Seamaster with a GMT complication while at the Olympics.

Still, the succession to the Crown is assured: Frederik’s oldest son, Prince Christian, wore a Datejust on Jubilee with a Wimbledon dial at his high school graduation in June.

Prince Christian (Photo credit: Kongehuset)