It’s not everyday you can buy an 'Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch’ for $320, even though in reality the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch is going for 4-figures now in the grey market. This is a historic release, and a first when it comes to collaborations between brands under the Swatch Group’s umbrella. The MoonSwatch was released to much fanfare, with lineups stretching blocks and the watch selling out extremely quickly. However, feedback was not all positive, and many objected to how this could negatively affect Omega and the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch’s brand. We wanted to take a look at the legacy of the Omega Moonwatch and compare it to how people reacted to the recent Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch release.

Omega Speedmaster ‘Moonwatch’ History

1969 Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch ref. 145.022 / Credit: Van Rijk Jewellers

Omega’s famous Moonwatch is synonymous with NASA and the space race. It was the official watch that American astronauts wore for many years, and watch collectors today basically worship it. The first Omega Speedmaster was released in 1957 as part of Omega’s trilogy of tool watches. Astronaut Walter Schirra as his personal timepiece for the Sigma 7 mission in 1962 and this was the start of Omega’s storied legacy as a space watch. NASA declared it the official timepiece of its astronauts in 1965, for the Gemini III flight. The Omega Speedmaster was also part of the Apollo 11 mission in 1969 – this is what put the Moonwatch truly in the horology hall of fame, as it was the first time humans landed on the moon. While it was a part of other missions, Apollo 11 was watched by 600 million people and is one of the most significant historical events of the 20th century. And so, this is the legacy of the Moonwatch – it is truly one of the most collectible timepieces ever. So much so that it’s not just vintage models that are sought after by collectors, but more so any model – new, old, and everything in-between. The Moonwatch is Omega’s anchor, with the watch being a brand in itself. The question is then, can a brand so strong be tarnished by a collaboration with what purists consider a ‘lesser’ brand?

Differing Opinions on the Swatch x Omega Bioceramic MoonSwatch SO33M100

On one hand we have those who say that the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch tarnishes the Omega Speedmaster’s brand and the Omega brand itself. This is because, in making a Speedmaster-like timepiece that still has Omega on the dial, more accessible, they are cheapening the brand. The Speedmaster is ‘cheap’ they would say – because you can get one for $320. This is, in some sense, admitting defeat, with the idea that luxury watches are sold at huge premiums being exposed to an extent. If you can get an ‘Omega’ for $320, which would you pay thousands of dollars for one? This obviously has made some people in the watch world furious. And there is some truth to this, of course, you expect certain characteristics to come with a timepiece stamped Omega on the dial that the MoonSwatch doesn’t have.

On the other hand, however, there are those who argue that this was a brilliant public relations move by both brands – and more so by the Swatch Group. The idea being that, with more people having exposure to the MoonSwatch, they will eventually upgrade to an Omega Speedmaster. And, of course, that the exposure in general, with so many people sharing, writing, and lining up to buy a Swatch, doing wonders for Swatch and the Swatch Group’s sales. While the ‘trickle down’, or rather ‘trickle up’, effect of the MoonSwatch is yet to be seen, other arguments seem to discount or ignore how this could affect Omega Speedmaster sales. It is totally possible that this boost in visibility can help Omega sell more, the effect on its brand, however, will be a separate story. Ultimately this is the ‘problem’ with being a brand beholden to such a large group – sometimes the group decides things that may not exactly be the best for you. Perhaps this move is beneficial to the Swatch Group outright but not exactly for Omega? Hopefully, the idea that this exposure is as good for Omega as it is for Swatch will hold true, but usually that’s not how things work with luxury brands. You can partner horizontally, you can partner with a brand that’s above your own, but there’s a reason Omegas aren’t sold at Walmart.

As someone who is a Grand Seiko lover above all else, there are many a move that Seiko has done that has tarnished the brand in my eyes. It doesn’t diminish my love for Grand Seiko at all, and I expect the same to be true for passionate Omega collectors. Moreover, I don’t think the next ‘civilian’ looking for a new watch is really going to see Omega’s brand as diminished because it chose to partner with Swatch. While what I said above holds true, that Omegas aren’t sold in Walmart for a reason, it is equally true that one partnership with a brand that it is part of the same group of should have a minimal negative effect on how the Omega brand is perceived – and that that effect may be offset by the new eyes, the new demographic, that Omega is reaching.

By: Andres Ibarguen