What Are Skin Divers?
Longines Compressor Skin Diver ref. 7042-1 / Credit: Virginia Vintage Watches
Dive watches actually come in a number of forms. There are the professional dive watches like the Doxa Subs and Omega Ploprof, but there are also what would be considered ‘lightweight’ or skin divers. In case you aren’t a diver, because I’m not at all, skin diving means diving without much (or essential) gear. Flippers and a mask/snorkel, plus a watch, of course. That’s where skin diver watches come in, skin divers watches are lightweight dive watches that would generally have a lower depth rating than what would be considered appropriate for a professional dive watch. They also do not have certain features that a professional dive watch might have, like a helium escape valve.
The History of Skin Divers
Longines skin diver ad
Skin diving became very popular in the mid-20th century, which was around the same time dive watches and diving also became popular, post WWII. This led to an increase in interest in skin divers, with many companies competing in the market in the 1950s. One of them, Longines, released a very well-remembered skin diver – largely due to its recently released homage (the Longines Heritage Skin Diver). The Longines Nautilus Skin Diver ref. 6921-1 appeared as early as 1957 (Longines says it was ‘officially’ released in 1959 but models can be found as far back as 1957) and featured a Longines 19AS (A. Schild) movement, a robust automatic movement, and a case made by Ervin Piquerez. However, it was deemed to be too fragile for divers, even skin divers, as the bezel was made of Bakelite. For this reason, it is very rare today to find a good condition Longines Nautilus Skin Diver with its original bezel, not to mention they weren’t produced in very high quantities. This would be addressed in the second version of the watch, the ref. 7042-1.
In 1960, Longines upgraded their skin diver, introducing the Longines Compressor Skin Diver ref. 7042-1, the watch inspired by the Longines Legend Diver, which now had a stainless-steel bezel/Super Compressor case – again made by Ervin Piquerez. This vintage Longines diver also featured a 19AS movement. And, as both watches were skin divers, the Longines ref. 6921-1 and the ref. 7042-1 only had a depth rating of 150 meters and 100 meters, respectively. For comparison, the first Rolex Sea-Dweller, Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000 ref. 1665 a.k.a. ‘Single Red’, made with Jacques Cousteau’s expeditions in mind, had a depth rating of 500 meters.
As you may have already noticed, Ervin Piquerez made a lot of cases for skin divers, and dive watches in general (the notorious Super Compressor case, of course). But other companies were also very involved in skin watch case production, like Squale, for example.
Lloyd Bridges sporting a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms on the cover of Skin Diver Magazine, February 1962
The famous dive watch companies of the day like Rolex and Blancpain were not themselves adverse to the skin diver business. Rolex is said to have started distributing a skin diver handbook to every Rolex Submariner purchaser in the early 1960s. Meanwhile, in 1962, American actor, Lloyd Bridges, appeared on the February cover of Skin Diver Magazine with a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms.
There were many other skin divers made by an assortment of companies including Nicolet, Wittnauer, Waltham, Elgin, and more.
The Best Vintage Skin Divers
Longines Nautilus Skin Diver 6921-1
Vintage Longines Nautilus Skin Diver ref. 6921-1 / Credit: Phillips
As described above, the Longines Nautilus Skin Diver ref. 6921-1 was one of the first skin divers released in the late 950s and featured a reliable automatic movement – the Cal. 19AS. It was housed inside of an Ervin Piquerez case with a classic Bakelite bezel, and is the inspiration for the recently released Longines homage: the Longines Heritage Skin Diver.
AMF Voit Super Waterproof 1573-666
Vintage AMF Voit Super Waterproof ref. 1573-666 / Credit: Wanna Buy a Watch
Founded by William J. Voit in 1922, Voit began as a tire retreading company in Los Angeles, California. The company was later acquired by American Machine & Foundry Co. or AMF in 1957 and pivoted to recreational diving equipment. The new entity, AMF Voit, produced their legendary dive watches throughout the 1960s and early ‘70s. AMF Voit teamed up with the Swiss powerhouse Schild & Co. to produce these watches, specifically the movements, which they sold along with their recreational diving equipment line. The AMF Voit skin divers, while not as well known as Longines, are a great example of the quintessential skin diver watch aesthetic from that time.
Hosam Super Squale Skin Diver
Vintage Hosam Super Squale Skin Diver
This classic skin diver comes to us from Squale, a brand specialized in dive watches since its founding in the 20th century. This 1960s Hosam Super Squale Skin Diver features the automatic Felsa 4007N movement and had a depth rating of 200 meters at the time. It was also a bit bulky for the 1960s, measuring 39 mm in diameter.
By: Andres Ibarguen