The Backes & Strauss Story
Backes & Strauss’ original location in the 18th century / Credit: Backes & Strauss
Many may not be familiar with the mere existence of this company as it does, to an extent, fly under the radar. But in the right circles and even in the right history books, you’re sure to come across it eventually. I’m talking about Backes & Strauss, called the oldest diamond company in the world and also a watchmaker, with its own brand aimed at the high-end market.
The history of Backes & Strauss goes back to 1789 in Hanau, Germany, near Frankfurt, where it was founded as a manufacturer and trader of jewellery and diamonds. The city was known as a hub for the jewellery industry at the time, and the company was founded there by Georg Carl Backes, who moved there as a boy from Steinfurt. Early on the firm focused on jewellery over diamond trading, which was still a significant part of its business. After opening a new branch in London, under the supervision of Georg Carl’s son, the firm now called ‘J.F. Backes’ was a major part of the Great Exhibition in 1851. In the mid-1850s, the firm hired a young man by the name of Max Strauss, who quickly rose to manage the company and even changed the name to Backes & Strauss.
Up until then the company had focused on the jewellery trade, but it was in the late 19th century that they turned their focus from jewellery to diamonds – marketing themselves as diamond traders.
While the company continued to grow in the 20th century, behind the scenes a new name would soon take over.
The Vitesse collection inspired by HRH Princess Michael of Kent’s affinity for cheetahs / Credit: Backes & Strauss
Vartkess Knadjian Sr. was a watchmaker to the Emperor of Ethiopia, Haile Selassie, in Addis Ababa and also a representative of several Swiss brands. Knadjian was Armenian in origin and left Switzerland in 1940 to work in Madagascar, from Madagascar he landing in Ethiopian court, where he was charged with working on all issues watch-related, even those to do with the Parliament building…
Vartkess Knadjian Sr. sent his son to study in the United Kingdom, planning to have him take over the family business in Ethiopia, but when the government expropriated private businesses in the 1970s, he stayed and started to work in Backes & Strauss. It was through coincidence and friendship that Vartkess Knadjian Jr. landed in his new role, that took him from London to Antwerp learning the diamond trade. When the opportunity presented itself, Knadjian took up a leadership role at Backes & Strauss, becoming manager of the Antwerp office in the early 1980s.
Princess Michael of Kent and Backes & Strauss CEO Vartkess Knadjian / Credit: Backes & Strauss
Taking advantage of market conditions, the company prospered throughout the 1980s. However, in the 1990s as a result of De Beers’ restructuring, Vartkess Knadjian organized a management buy-out of Backes & Strauss from owner Benjamin Bonas. His first order of business? Turning the company from its focus on diamonds towards its new focus on timepieces.
Thus, in 2006, the company signed an agreement with Franck Muller for the production of their timepieces – previously calling their watches a “showcase for their diamonds.” While not an extensive collection they produce mostly dress watches with artful designs and a variety of diamond bezels. In a way going full circle from its earlier focus on jewellery and diamonds to watches and diamonds – with the Knadjians to thank for it.
By: Andres Ibarguen
Read more:
“Backes & Strauss Ltd.” British Museum, https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/term/BIOG64964.
“History & Heritage.” Backes & Strauss, https://www.backesandstrauss.com/history-heritage.
Longet, Ash. “Discovering Backes & Strauss.” Europa Star, November 2019, https://www.europastar.com/archives/1004091486-discovering-backes-strauss.html.
“Vartkess Knadjian.” Backes & Strauss, https://www.backesandstrauss.com/history-heritage.
A vintage Seiko women’s dress watch 11-3389 for sale on TVW.