Once Overshadowed, Rolex’s Dress Watches Rival in Value Retention

Average value retention by collection. (Credit: WatchCharts)

The analysis of value retention by collection has long shown a clear hierarchy within the Rolex lineup. But today, the ranking of the brand’s Classic line relative to its Professional models is unusual and worth writing about. The value retention of dress watches at Rolex is rare among industry peers and is the latest sign that consumer tastes may be shifting as the brand’s strategy to beef up its Classic line begins to resonate with buyers.

Rolex remains the only major watch brand whose models, on average, continue to trade above retail prices. WatchCharts, which provides the data, defines value retention as the premium a watch commands on the secondary market. For Rolex, it stands at +15%, driven in part by models from the Classic line. By comparison, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet see premiums concentrated mostly in their sports models, while most other brands trade at discounts exceeding -30% relative to retail.

At Rolex, the Land-Dweller, its latest model from the Classic collection, now tops the chart by a wide margin, a position usually held by Professional models. The Day-Date drops only -1% on average, a remarkable result given it is offered exclusively in precious metals, while the 1908, Datejust and Sky-Dweller show positive premiums. In contrast, Patek Philippe’s dress collections trade at more than -40% below retail. It is a testament to Rolex’s strength in the secondary market that both its dress and sports watches continue to hold value so well.